Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm fitting an aftermarket computer and have the option of running a more modern air intake temperature sensor as oppose to the stock rb26 one that is slow and soaks up the heat of the intake manifold. I am also fitting an r34 intercooler which has a nice hole to mount the sensor on the end tank. Will this give accurate readings or will i need to mount it much closer to the intake manifold.

4pvawy.jpg

I can't see the intake manifold being the best place for that sensor (WTF were Nissan thinking?).

Anywhere between the cold side of the cooler (where you have circled) and before it hits the engine bay. That way it doesn't get warm from heatsoak.

could run 35 gtr afm's if your keeping afm's that is

as they have air temp sensors built in to them :)

Maybe so. But after the turbos heat the air, then the cooler cools the air, what is the actual temp

Of the incoming charge?

I can't see the intake manifold being the best place for that sensor (WTF were Nissan thinking?).

Anywhere between the cold side of the cooler (where you have circled) and before it hits the engine bay. That way it doesn't get warm from heatsoak.

Makes sense to me. Closer to the chamber the better.

I can't see the intake manifold being the best place for that sensor (WTF were Nissan thinking?).

Anywhere between the cold side of the cooler (where you have circled) and before it hits the engine bay. That way it doesn't get warm from heatsoak.

exactly, dumb suggestion that one was. Pretty sure he isn't using MAF based setup anyway.

If you use the gizzmo gasket on the plenum, the factory sensor spot apparently reads much better as you don't get the level of heat transfer.

remember reading someone testing that back a while ago. Still doesn't help the factory sensor is really slow though, but at least once caught up it was certainly lower and more realistic.

exactly, dumb suggestion that one was. Pretty sure he isn't using MAF based setup anyway.

If you use the gizzmo gasket on the plenum, the factory sensor spot apparently reads much better as you don't get the level of heat transfer.

remember reading someone testing that back a while ago. Still doesn't help the factory sensor is really slow though, but at least once caught up it was certainly lower and more realistic.

hook line sinker Nismoid head

Did I hear a stfu? Oh sorry that was me. The best place to mount that bitch is as close to the intake valve as possible. Passing air will take care of heat soak bitches. But mounting that shit in the port aint going to happen now is it bushies? Put it as close to your throttle body as possible. Right where your f**king blow off valve should be. Just after that bitch. That is about an inch. Gota keep that pressure in the cooler now dont we?! (more swearing and cursing)

Edited by Room42

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...