Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my cobb today and am a bit bored at work. Don't have time to take the car to the workshop as it's the weekend but want to try to upgrade the TCM myself to see what the fuss is about in the meantime

I want to upgrade to LC5 and was wondering anyone know which map name and transmission type to select?

Map Name :

* Level 1 - 3300 RPM

* Level 2 - 3700 RPM

* Stock Style LC2 Logic

Transmission Type:

JF04B JF09D JF09E JW91A JW91B JW91D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411384-cobb-tcm-question/
Share on other sites

When you go to install the TCM it will tell you which software version you have, then install KB15B (I think thats the code off the top of my head) LC4 VDC OFF V101...or at least thats what we like to use. Its nice :)

Once finished -

Set CC and TP values to zero then perform a Clutch Gear Relearn.

Set CC and TP to desired after that. Start with CC +1, +1, and TP 0, 0

Did the upgrade to LC4 with VDC OFF as recommended by Martin and it is a day and night difference to the LC2. Smoother shifts especially from 1st to 2nd and no more shuddering when taking off slowly or slowing to a near stop and then moving off again. Will play around with LC5 this week to see what the difference (if any is).

Did the upgrade to LC4 with VDC OFF as recommended by Martin and it is a day and night difference to the LC2. Smoother shifts especially from 1st to 2nd and no more shuddering when taking off slowly or slowing to a near stop and then moving off again. Will play around with LC5 this week to see what the difference (if any is).

Hmmmmm The bunny hopping and mild shudder I get in 1st when cold is starting to bug me - as well as reversing the bl00dy thing up a slightly inclined driveway to get out of the garage is doing my head in trying to find the right acc balance point so that I don't launch into the street, or bunny hop or get that clunking clutch slip noise....

What to do what to do... I wanna keep my warranty, but I hate this shit..

CC = Clutch Capacity for Odd and Even gears.

Adjustments range from -7 to +7 and linearly increase clutch apply pressure when shifting.

Normally from the factory these are set to 0 (right in the middle)

On a moderately powered up car setting these to +2 +2 is a good step

In a high powered car then +4 +4 is the go.

I dont go much over that as its hard on the seals and gears to run massive pressures.

Its a feel thing.

TP = Touch Point for Odd and Even gears

Touch Point is best explained as the prepositioning or pre-load on the clutches.

Adding more Odd TP will give more creep in 1st gear at idle speed

I normally leave these as close to 0 as to get the desired driving result

Hope that helps :)

haha how will lc4/5 improve the clutch take up point though?

i'm waiting on my code to upgrade the accessport - can be done through the ap manager now rather than having to send it back to US

i'm hoping the newer launch programs have better control on wheel slip, as 4000k lc will just dry my tyres even more than my current lc3

I was bored and flashed from LC4 to LC5. Maybe it's a psychological thing but I actually like LC4 better for day to day driving. It makes less sound and was a bit smoother during start/stop? I heard LC4 had more slip in the clutch, is this the reason?

I have since reflashed back to LC4 from LC5

When you go to install the TCM it will tell you which software version you have, then install KB15B (I think thats the code off the top of my head) LC4 VDC OFF V101...or at least thats what we like to use. Its nice :)

Once finished -

Set CC and TP values to zero then perform a Clutch Gear Relearn.

Set CC and TP to desired after that. Start with CC +1, +1, and TP 0, 0

Ok. Just followed these instructions precisely. Now I'll take it for a spin and see what the difference is. Still CC at +3 otherwise there is to much slip.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I highly rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...