Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So suddenly I have a very very irritating issue with my r33. There isn't really an electrics section of the forum, but this may be audio related.

The issue rose its head on a quick shopping trip of all things. Turned the key to on, then upon turning to ignition the entire electrical system dies. No power to anything.

At the time I managed to get it back, but I had no idea how and I put it down to a gremlin. But the problem persists. Its an inconsistent problem, but I have begun to notice patterns.

Variables that have changed :

I moved from Brisbane to Canberra. In Brisbane my car was always garaged. Down here it is not. After a storm or sometimes on a frosty morning the problem appears. Also, after going to a car wash on a nice warm Sydney afternoon, the problem arose. Water a catalyst?

Just before coming to canberra I installed some new 6.5 option audio speakers in the doors. I used the factory wiring.

The temporary fix :

Slamming a door. Yeah ... Slam a door, and the dash lights flick on then off, and try again. Eventually it will kick over without cutting out. As long as it is running its fine.

I'm at a bit of a loss as to what I can do. I would like to give it a try fixing it myself before going to an auto electrician. Something I wanted to try was to make sure the factory speaker wiring was ok by soldering it to the speakers properley and then heatshrinking. I took a door trim off today just to look at it but nothing seems out of place.

:wacko:

Failing that, anyone know a good auto-electrician in Canberra, or even one in Sydney who is open weekends. I don't have all my tools down here which makes things harder too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411512-electrical-diagnosis-help/
Share on other sites

So suddenly I have a very very irritating issue with my r33. There isn't really an electrics section of the forum, but this may be audio related.

The issue rose its head on a quick shopping trip of all things. Turned the key to on, then upon turning to ignition the entire electrical system dies. No power to anything.

At the time I managed to get it back, but I had no idea how and I put it down to a gremlin. But the problem persists. Its an inconsistent problem, but I have begun to notice patterns.

Variables that have changed :

I moved from Brisbane to Canberra. In Brisbane my car was always garaged. Down here it is not. After a storm or sometimes on a frosty morning the problem appears. Also, after going to a car wash on a nice warm Sydney afternoon, the problem arose. Water a catalyst?

Just before coming to canberra I installed some new 6.5 option audio speakers in the doors. I used the factory wiring.

The temporary fix :

Slamming a door. Yeah ... Slam a door, and the dash lights flick on then off, and try again. Eventually it will kick over without cutting out. As long as it is running its fine.

I'm at a bit of a loss as to what I can do. I would like to give it a try fixing it myself before going to an auto electrician. Something I wanted to try was to make sure the factory speaker wiring was ok by soldering it to the speakers properley and then heatshrinking. I took a door trim off today just to look at it but nothing seems out of place.

:wacko:

Failing that, anyone know a good auto-electrician in Canberra, or even one in Sydney who is open weekends. I don't have all my tools down here which makes things harder too.

Yes water humidity can be a issue

Really its not the speakers the door slam just shakes the car , bet if you open hand slap the car near the drivers door it does the same thing

Or a light tap on the dash or surround on the key?

check all battery connections after you clean them for tightness ,fuse box to battery connection

and if the car has alarm I would suss the connections on the starter relay ( the ignition uses multiple power paths ) are loose or even a worn key / ignition barrel from a heavy keyring ?

Try a new key if you have one ?

the fact its worse when its wet leads to a battery connection problem most likely or even a dead cell starting to play up

those are the places to look first

The circuit issue is between the key and battery but which item

Well gave everything a check and cleaned with contact cleaner. Nothing looked out of place and the fuses look brand new.

Remove the battery terminals and use a twist brush on it , and terminals inside , contact cleaner wont do crap to those

Pull the fuses one at a time and check for corrosion or dull grey blades a rub of superfine grit sandpaper on each leg and pop back in , not grind it off but just shine it and put back in , if you have any dodgy wiring taps they need to go on any item

check the 4ga and small wire that runs to starter as well they get disgusting filth and cause issues

Lots of wires look fine but fail , so a physical wiggle test is required on some

If the car has alarm ( under warranty let installer look at it ) not warranty pull off clamshell surround on ignition and recheck while wiggling the wires going into key barrel , go easy or sparks could fly!!

But save that for last

Edited by Carbon 34

The terminals look brand new I just reseated the terminals.

Haven't had a chance to test out the theories as it has yet to not start. Its warming up too. Maybe I should see if it starts after a wash.

The car has alarm, and If it continues I'll take the plastics off the steering column.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...