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Brake Pad Install Help

suwidji
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suwidji Experienced

suwidji

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I just bought new brake pads for my 34 gtt (fronts), but i can't seem to find a step-by step-for it. Just wondering if anyone could provide me with one (photo's recomennded, im a visual learner lol) or link me to one?

I did find an old thread on how to do it, but the pics are dead and i dont want to stuff it up, because they are the things making me stop and not crash my car!

Cheers!

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411834-brake-pad-install-help/
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ichi-go Rising Star

ichi-go

Posted
Posted

They are not the same but the procedure will be the same

Google for some step by step guide on how to change brake pads and just do a general read up and wing it

To be honest, if you need help changing brake pads, bring it to someone who can do it for you because you don't sound like you know what to do

suwidji Experienced

suwidji

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Yeh, i didn't know how to do it hence why i asked lol. I want to learn. I watched lots of videos and how to's, but most of them were taking the caliper off, and i know skylines you can do it without having to take it off.

Anyways,

I followed the first few steps of this guide

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/231627-r34-gtt-front-rotor-and-pad-replacement/

and worked really well. It was a struggle getting the old pads off, they had the extra metal plates behind them and made a tight fit. After a bit of fiddling around, i got them off. Had to push the pistons around to fit the new pads in though lol so annoying!

I do have a question though. Are the extra metal plates (i think they're called shims?) necessary? Like do i need to put them back onto the new pads? If so, how would i go about doing that, since it was incredibly tight enough fitting the new ones ON!

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

If you push the pistons back properly it should be easy to get pads in. And yes, the shims are a good idea. They help to insulate thepistons from the pad, and they can help prevent squeal. You really need to have a can of brakekleen and something to lube slides/pins with and anti-squeal goop on hand if you're going to change pads. And you really should bleed the brakes immediately afterwards - AND you have to take some fluid out of the MC reservior before you push the old pads/pistons back so you don't overfolw it.

suwidji Experienced

suwidji

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oh ok, thanks for the info.

What is the best way to hold back the pistons? I pretty much just pushed it back by levering it (very carefully) using a scrwdriver. Yeh i know it definately is not the best way, but i had nothing else on me at the time.

Hybrid905 Collaborator

Hybrid905

Posted
Posted

If your changing your pads it is also a good time to bleed your brake system/ change fluid. Go to repco/ supercheap etc and pick up a one man bleeder kit. Easy as to use :) also check your disk condition ( they may need to be machined) because its always good to bed in your new pads on clean disks!

suwidji Experienced

suwidji

Posted
  • Author
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yep, i'll go to supercheap tomorrow and bleed out the brake system. Do I do it for all 4 wheels, and then fill up the master cylinder with brake fluid?

Also, just re-iterating my question, what is the best method to open up the pistons to allow the brakes to fit in well, as well as the shims. To be honest, I didn't put the shims back in because it just wouldn't fit. But i really want to get it in there to stop the very minor squealing I'm getting when braking at low speeds.

Cheers

Hybrid905 Collaborator

Hybrid905

Posted
Posted

Yeah just remember to start from the furthest wheel away from the master cylinder and work your way forward. When you loosen the bleed nipple push the pistons back with your fingers. This will push fluid out so take this into account when you do it :)

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Levering carefully, using an old pad is fine. There are screw winding clampy type things that you can use to push pistons back in. The trouble is always knowing when you are using enough force to push a piston that should move, and when you are using too much force to push a piston that has jammed. Experience is the only guide there.

Yes, you bleed all the brakes. Furthest wheel from the MC first, then next closest, and so on. Usually that means LR, RR, LF, RF on a RHD car. ABS can complicate the issue though. And if you don't know what you are doing, it is seriously best to do it with someone who does the first time. It is too easy to just make a bloody mess, empty the brake system and go backwards if you do it wrong.

You need to make sure that you keep topping up the MC with fresh brake fluid all through the process. I suck out most of the old stuff from the reservoir and replace with fresh before starting so you don't have to pump a full res of old stuff through before getting the clean stuff in.

Also, if you are pumping the brakes with the bleed nipple open, DO NOT stroke the pedal all the way down. Put a block of wood on the floor under the pedal to stop you form doing so, as the grungy crud at the bottom end of the piston stroke will chew up the MC seals and you will need to kit the MC before getting the pedal to work again.

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