Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

A couple of days ago I was driving the car and misread the gears and ended up downshifting to 1st gear going at about 30kms. The car obviously didnt like it cause it jerked and ever since then there is a rattling noise from under the car. Bell housing?

Update: Local mechanic thinks its from the exhaust.... we'll see when he has a hoist free.

Edited by hzrdus
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411917-rattling-suspect-transmission/
Share on other sites

Could be the exhaust hzrdus, it has only been on there for a few hundred kms and a couple of track days so could probably do with a check of all bolt tensions.

The only noises I ever heard was the standard idle rattle and the dash had a rattle but that was fixed under warranty (couple of bits realigned).

If the car is still stock (other than exhaust) I would say its impossible to damage the car by doing a downshift like that.

put it on the hoist, and it sounds like its a cat failure. rattling sound travels throughout the exhaust, my mechanic thinks its the cats (honeycomb has come loose). dont think this will be covered under warranty as it has a willall exhaust system, so know im going to have to find some hi flow cats to replace it as the rattling annoys the fk out of me.

Just make sure you have a good think before changing the cats...

At this stage you should have a good case for having them replaced under warranty, given the only modifications are downstream of the secondary o2 sensors. Northside certainly indicated that the exhaust modification would not affect drivetrain warranty.

Replace the cats and you will probably need to remove an engine light for the secondary o2 sensors which will void the warranty.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Could be the honeycomb in the cat I have a 2011 and mine does the same thing it's getting fixed through warranty aswell as my brakes as rotors... Dealer offered aftermarket brakes and rotors but not sure which ones I should say I want

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...