Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm not sure if you guys are all familiar with the ackerman principle, but bassicaly on all passsenger cars when you turn the wheels left, the left wheel turns more than the right, and vice versa.

Bassically giving you a "toe out" setup around corners to maintain true rolling motion

Heres a good video clearly explaining this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVx_bgI7Ojw&feature=related

Would putting in wrong lenths tie ends alter this in an way?

Trying to imagine this in my head, using wrong tie end lenths would alter the ammount of toe in toe out setting, but should not affect the ackerman principle?

These are the ones I got http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/230854661059?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

For a 1993 gtst

When the mechanic put the new ones in he counted the same number of turns as the old one and the car came of the hoist with massive toe in. about 5cm on each side.

Now 2 wheel alligments later the car feels sloppy when driving straight and wanders on the roads. I know the road geomertry affects all this but it was defintely not like this before messing with the suspension. In fact it was beatifull and confidence inspiring.

Now, For example when braking and accelrating, its just pulling and pushing the wheel in weird ways. the car generally doesnt feel as compotent. Its gone from solid on straights and corners to sloppy and unpredictable in the same roads, same conditions.

I asked for 0 0 toe and i ONLY had the front 2 wheels adjusted or touched.

After the Ffrst alligment, steering wheel was off to the left, second time and whats its on now its off to the right. But even if I were to centre the wheel it still feel sloppy and wonders.

I just wish I left the car alone as the old tie end rods were ok to me,. the only reason I changed them is mechanic said boot is busted.

if the tie rods were adjusted to same toe settings then the rack would be the same length so shouldn't change anything, what was the report from the alignment?, otherwise hey you say they're the wrong ones & the car feels crap, put the right ones on?

Ive used those ones and I havent had problems. Did you have 2 alignments done by the same workshop? They should have straightened the steering wheel to centre either time. Doesnt inspire confidence in their accuracy.

yes both at the same shop. it is a mechanical machine so no before after printout.

it's possible the bushes are worn so they don't keep settings but frustrating that after new tie end rods and alignment car drives much worse than before.

maybe i should try some toe in to see if it feels like before.

im just going to try do my own adjustment

Your getting all flustered about things that aren't effected by the components you've changed

Ackerman is not effected by tie rod length, if the toe is the same as before the pivot points haven't moved.

Why did you ask for 0 toe?

If its a road going car toe it in a total of 1-2mm depending on your preference.

Get a decent alignment on a proper machine, problem will go away

there one of the best quality rod ends about,the mechanic should have measured before removing the old ones and not number of turns because the length may vary slightly,and then tracked it up and as above ackerman is not effected and you need toe in

Its only rod ends they're simple as, no need to measure anything when changing them. Just mark with chalk roughly where they are so its near enough for the new ones and then get an alignment.

Get a front and rear alignment to make sure the car is tracking straight, it may be causing your problems

i recently replaced the tie rod ends myself, got them from kudos, i made the mistake of just counting the turns and bolted it all together,

went for a drive and it was very wierd in the steering, so i checked and the new tie rod ends are a bit longer, and the wheels werent pointing straight at all , so ive adjusted it so the wheels are pointing straight and its driving straight

but i know what you mean, it feels a bit odd now so i guess ill need someone to set the toe in and check it is right. :yucky:

what state are you in? says on that add there for a gt34

Edited by SliverS2

Ok some developments on the issue. First I'll reply to some posts.

Ive used those ones and I havent had problems. Did you have 2 alignments done by the same workshop? They should have straightened the steering wheel to centre either time. Doesnt inspire confidence in their accuracy.

I think the guy doing the first 2 alignments just parks the car with the wheels straight and hopes the wheel doesn't move during adjustment. This was a reputable recommended place and the guy has 30 years experience I was told.

Do you have original caster rods with the old fluid filled bushes?

I have the original caster rods, but I've had white line Poly bushes put in a few weeks ago. Big improvement to stability after that. While the mechanic was doing the bushes he said my tie rod boots were worn so I decided to change them too which resulted in the problems of this thread. I should have stopped after caster bushes car was driving great. The new tie rods brought me nothing but pain and lost money, and probably damage to hubs etc,

Your getting all flustered about things that aren't effected by the components you've changed

Ackerman is not effected by tie rod length, if the toe is the same as before the pivot points haven't moved.

Why did you ask for 0 toe?

If its a road going car toe it in a total of 1-2mm depending on your preference.

Get a decent alignment on a proper machine, problem will go away

Yup, I figured as much but wasn't 100%. The reason I asked about ackerman is because the car felt so funny not just on straights but on corners as well. I now know why though its because the alignment was skewed, and in varying amounts on each wheel.

I asked for 0 0 toe because I haven't found a alignment place I have confidence in and I prefer a more neutral alignment setup. I figured with 0 0 the likelihood of getting too much out of whack is lower.

The three places in my life i have taken my car for a wheel alignment the car has always been worse of and protested driving effortlessly afterwards. The 4 wheel steering on a eunos 800 I had broke a day after getting it aligned at bob jane at their recommendation and my expense after 4 new tyre set fitting and the whole car was crabbing like crazy and steering wheel about 10 degrees off. Went back 3 times and they told me its an old car it cant keep alignment This was back in 2005 and it was a near mint highway driven car that drive like a tron bike before the alignment. After that it went to a tortoise with 3 legs and a tumor and I never resolved the issue because it would have cost $1000s.

there one of the best quality rod ends about,the mechanic should have measured before removing the old ones and not number of turns because the length may vary slightly,and then tracked it up and as above ackerman is not effected and you need toe in

Believe it or not I had a look around shops and ebay for the tie end rods and I decided on those by a long shot just by looking at the pictures. In the pics they looked top notch, looked like high grade steel, great casting, really good manufacture all round. I wasnt disappointed when they arrived. One thing I did not do is ask the mechanic to compare sizes with the old ones though. Dohh....

i recently replaced the tie rod ends myself, got them from kudos, i made the mistake of just counting the turns and bolted it all together,

went for a drive and it was very wierd in the steering, so i checked and the new tie rod ends are a bit longer, and the wheels werent pointing straight at all , so ive adjusted it so the wheels are pointing straight and its driving straight

but i know what you mean, it feels a bit odd now so i guess ill need someone to set the toe in and check it is right. :yucky:

what state are you in? says on that add there for a gt34

I'm in nsw. Shame if you were in syd would've loved to have a look at how ur wheels are sitting.

Take a few pics from above the wheel guards like i have.

iqvsif.jpg

54u6vb.jpg

Anyway above is the alignment after the alignment shop. Whats that like a few mm of toe out on the front left wheel and a lot of toe in on the front right? What kind of alignment is that if a customer asks for 0 0.

I realise this is far from ideal way to check alignment but I'm sure the panels do not vary that much from one side to another. Car hasn't been in a accident and panels look very straight.

So using this crude method to check alignment my uncle got under the car while I told him which direction to turn the tie rods. On the first go the alignment is now 90% back to how it was, the car doesnt feel like a truck without power steering or summersaults in a random direction mid corner. And this is just trying to get the tyres straight by eye!

I still prefer to go somewhere but only to a place that has electronic machine and they show you the readouts, recommend settings and ask you what you want instead of just asking for the keys.

Edited by sadr33

Even if the panels are straight, you cant pick an alignment by pictures, it needs to be measured.

I still prefer to go somewhere but only to a place that has electronic machine and they show you the readouts, recommend settings and ask you what you want instead of just asking for the keys.

Do this, but you'll have to tell them what you want, so they don't just set it at their preferred settings.

20121105 115911



I think you need to go to a specialist in race car prep , i know a guy in brissy who does it and last time the car was 100% better, i wouldnt be confident in the local pedders or whoever to do a good job.. even just by eye mine is driving straight and feels reasonable, just doesnt feel as sharp and settled like before.. Edited by SliverS2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...