Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just encountered a similar problem to this with my S2. Power steering seems to be heavier than normal but it's a constant not intermittent problem. HICAS is plugged in and no lock bar or dash lights. I'm going to check fluids soon but I'm guessing it's a pump issue or the speed sensor?

I've just encountered a similar problem to this with my S2. Power steering seems to be heavier than normal but it's a constant not intermittent problem. HICAS is plugged in and no lock bar or dash lights. I'm going to check fluids soon but I'm guessing it's a pump issue or the speed sensor?

Check your fluids first there should be a light on your dash unless the globe has already been taken out. Has your car got an aftermarket steering wheel? By memory my was low fluid or the pump

Edited by paul_psi

Ah OK, no my steering wheel is a tired looking stock one haha, no dash light on when car is running but I'll check the fluids when I get some daylight tomorrow, otherwise I'm guessing its the pump on its last legs :(

Its strange because I had aftermarket steering wheel on my car and the hicas light would come on when id go over 100kph roughly and didnt go out till I turnd the car off then once I put the bar in the light was on all the time when I put the bar in I also put coilovers tie rods lower control arms ect so it went straight on a tow truck to pedders and the aligned it all for me and they fould the no power steer problem and they told me it was the pump or electrical I drove around for a couple days before I checked the fluid to find it was bone dry I topped it up had power steering again but driving it with no fluid must had wrecked the pump so when I changed it everything was fine just the hicas light and when I put the gtr dash in I just took the globe out im not sure if having a microtech or any aftermarket computer makes a differance

Hey guys new to forum and I was just curios due to my car has a lock out bar (not lock out kit) and my car still has hicas ecu plugged in and all I have done also is remove dash bulb and still retain factory sexy and I have never had an issue and have never had to do what blk94r33 did to fix he's issue, but in saying this my mates 33 power steering pump works on start up but stops working when you start to drive, he has lock out bar and ecu is still plugged in but has this power steering issue

Any advice will be very great full and both cars are S1 33 sedans

Sent from my iPhone using SAU Community

Does both you and your friends car have abs? Because the hicas ecus are different apparently and that may be why. Also does your friends car rev slightly when turning the wheel when stopped? Because if so it could be the speed sensor for the power steering, its working when stopped but not when moving? I am an amateur myself so I am just spit balling here, perhaps the experts on here can shed some light.

Hey dude both our cars are series 1 which don't have abs, andim not sure if it revs higher when u turn steering wheel, and speed sensor what does this have to do with power steering issues, but I was told by him that he's speedo has stopped working and at same time that's when he realised power steering was not working, but I've read up and not really finding anything about speedo affecting the power steering due to the power steering lines have one solenoid which is controlled via hicas ecu and as I said all my loom n hicas ecu is plugged in and works mint no steering problems and he's is same yet steering issues could it be he's speedo is f**ked and if yes please explain as to in like confused to y it would

My best guess is something to do with the busted speedo, as I've read on these forums that the sensor which controls how stiff the power steering is at which speed, is usually to blame for a problem like that, especially seeing as it works to begin with but soon stops once you start driving. I reckon fixing the speedo will fix the power steering too. Good luck!

  • 6 months later...

Sorry to bring this alive again but THANK YOU SO MUCH SEVERE!!!
Joined up to SAU just to say thanks you to severr33
This solved my 12 month problem of no power steering. Tried so many other things (besides Hicas Ecu replacement)
But now that ive done this i can rule out the Hicas ECU. Solder those wires back together and try order one somewhere and hopefully it will fix it.
My forearms thank you again.

  • 2 years later...

Hi all i tried the method of connecting pin 5 to pin 14 by simply unplugging the HICAS ecu, then getting a small wire and bridging those 2 sockets on the plug.

To my surprise it actually turned on my ignition and dash as if i had turned my key to 'accesories'. (my key was NOT in the car)

I started the car and the power steering was uneffected by this method.

Is the pin relating to the power steering solenoid in a different hole?

  • 4 years later...
On 12/23/2013 at 6:25 PM, blk94r33 said:

14 months on still functioning 100% and i've had no problems with any steering components.

Hi Paul, reviving an old thread here (hopefully).

Just wanted to check in and see if after all this time if you still never had any issues with the steering?

On a side note, does anyone know which pin is the speed input into the HICAS ECU?
According to the wiring diagram for the HICAS ECU, pin I see that pin 12 says "Engine Speed" and pin 31 goes to the "ECM", 'Data link connector" and "Vehicle speed signal (in meter)", but I'm not sure which is the input. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
    • To pick up what Dose is putting down. Not a lot of point running a huge hose if the motor is still restricted to the smaller size... It's only capable of flowing so much at that point...   *Waits for GTSBoy to come in and bring in the technicalities of length of pipe, and additional restriction from wall friction etc etc*
    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
×
×
  • Create New...