Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Many 10 second GTRs do so on the totally stock transmission.

With the advent of LC4 they are as likely to fail driving to the shops as they are running 10 second passes.

Our WR600 - 0-400m 10.3 sec, won the Temora 1000 - stock transmission

Kevs WR600 0-400m 10.6 sec, won the Snowy 1000 - stock transmission

35Rs WR450 0-400m 10.7 sec, won the NSW Supersprint Champs 2 years straight - stock transmission

- stock as in nothing changed other than the fluid -

You can be unlucky with these cars in terms of random component failure, but a properly sorted GTR that runs mid/high 10s shouldnt damage the transmission through overpowering the internals with a handful of drag runs every year :)

Wow, I apologise then. I was under the distinct impression from reading your numerous posts regarding the R35's transmission that you highly recommended safe guarding it with a number of upgrades to prevent the chance of a 'catastrophic internal failure'. You certainly cover the topic in some depth on your website.

'With the advent of LC4 they are as likely to fail driving to the shops as they are running 10 second passes.'

Well that's reassuring from a car costing nearly 200k. :wacko:

Edited by GT-R OZ

'With the advent of LC4 they are as likely to fail driving to the shops as they are running 10 second passes.'

What Martin means is that trans component failure is random, not determined by how many launches you've done - and to avoid any issues in the long term make sure the appropriate servicing is done over its lifetime.

I can relate to this, a mate of mine a few years ago blew a hole the size of my fist thru the bottom end of a Mazda 3 MPS doing 2000 rpm @ 40kms/hr on a main street on the Gold Coast when a rod exploded. But many weeks before that, he was doing hill climbs up springbrook and pushing the car to the limit with the best of us.

Was the car stock - yes, did he thrash the balls off it, no. Totally random and unfortunate..... lucky the thing was under warranty though.

Edited by Wardski

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...