Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

My 97 C34 Stagea RS4 auto was going fine, only averaging 15L/100kms city driving but still ok. Planning on doing the O2 Sensor.

I wired in a SAFC (the first style series 1 safc) and the car now has issues with anything over 2800rpm and more than 50% throttle.

I have wired these in to various cars a heap of times with no troubles.

I used a wideband O2 sensor to check the afr and it jumps from 10.0 - 12.2 whilst surging. (this is with the Safc settings all on Zero)

I also noticed some pinging around 5000rpm.

I assume the SAFC is faulty... Anyone have other Ideas???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412657-c34-stagea-safc-problems/
Share on other sites

I guess the options are

1. Its faulty

2. Your car has coincidentally developed a new problem

3. one or more connections are incorrect or you haven't set the tabs right for the Stagea

4. one or more connections are bad (loose etc)

If you don't already have it I have the SAFC manual as a word file or the ecu pinout if you need that.

Ok just fixed the problem, but who knows how long it will last.

Re-initialise and re enter all settings etc for sensor type etc and it's fixed!!! Im guessing it is a faulty unit...

You really need to adjust your timing as well. Here's the link in case Juzzy.melb doesn't buy it:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=528314079

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...