Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not too sure at the moment man, before i was getting 20 psi by about 4200rpm all the way to redline.

I wanted a low boost and high boost option (12 psi and 20psi). The tuner tried fiddling with the EBC but could not get it to hold steadily, said if he increased to 18psi it just drops down to 12 by the end. So i said to leave it at the 15psi tune for now until i get another boost controller, or figure out whats going on..

I may not have enough pre-load on the actuator rod, perhaps causing it to crack open pre-maturely? And yea Tao i'll look into the actuator rod.

I think its the 3rd or 4th tuner ive dealt with thats said these HKS EVC-S's are pieces of crap so it could just be that and my dodgy kando actuator..

Back to the drawing boards!

This manifold does add in abit of lag to the turbo but one the end it should make some thing like a 20KWs increase based on the same boost level. It looks like the actuator opened too early and not enough travel. I recon just install the 20psi actuator that came with the turbo, it doesn't boost to 20psi unless you step on it, boost control with your foot.

Ok here are some results using the cheap side mount V stock manifold V local hand made manifold.

allpower.jpg

allboost.jpg

Pink is ported stock manifold, Been the most responsive, but lowest in power evening using more boost.

Solid Red is the cheap side mount. the laggiest and required bit of work for it to fit properly. Power isn't bad.

Thin red is local hand made side mount, slightly laggier then stock while making the most power on least amount of boost.

For a budget its worth its money. I would still go for a proper side mount.

go on then stao.... how much do you charge for porting stock manifold?

Will cost $400, more then buying those ebay manifolds, my workers don't accept $10 / Day labor.

I find abit strange about people wishing to run like 12psi on low boost and 20psi on high boost. The car obviously don't comes to boost on cruise, and when I hammer it I sort of do expect the full potential of the car specially when people come up for a random drag. It would be like "wait, give me a sec to work out my EBC first." no need for full throttle all times.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...