2 Quick Questions

[itpesaf]

I'm going to check tyre pressure tomorrow... maybe thats whats making a difference?

[sonicii]

I doubt the VDC is upset with the slightly larger OD of the new tyres, after all, it seems to cope ok with the different size front/rear tyres on the factory 18in rims.

Either the tyres are actually slipping and triggering the VDC, or the steering wheel angle adjustment is out. Did the tyre shop do a wheel alignment, and if so, is the neutral position of the steering wheel a bit different now?

[itpesaf]

I don't think they did an alignment. Not sure about the neutral position - how do i check this?

I checked the tyre pressure this morning - the rear pressure was 36 both tyres, and i lowered it to 32 (same as my old tyres)...

Should I get a wheel alignment done? and if so do I need to get both front and rears aligned, or is it ok to do just rears as those are the tyres that were changed.

[sonicii]

I don't think they did an alignment. Not sure about the neutral position - how do i check this?

When driving straight, is the steering wheel in the same position it has always been?

the VDC system works by measuring speed of each individual wheel, steering wheel angle and yaw sensors (lateral and longitudinal G sensors).

A wheel alignment is not likely to fix the issue. If it is a steering wheel angle sensor calibration issue, you would need to get this done at Nissan, but since it was fine before the new tyres, I would guess it is just the tyres.

[Seano350GT]

You mentioned the ATR sports are very noisy tyres? DAMN, i have them wrapped on my 20's in the garage should go on this weekend, the tyres i have on atm are quiet i can't hear them at all. Hopefully these Achiles aren't bad..

[The Max]

I got new tyres put on my rear wheels last week (went with real cheap ones) and now whenever i go around a corner with a little speed the vdc slip light comes on and traction control kicks in! is this probably due to the fact that i have cheap rear tyres now? my previous ones were achillies atr lol so those were cheap also but i never had this issue with them. Do i need to be turning my vdc off from now when doing brisk driving? it's annoying coz i love driving through the hills and don't want the vdc to ruin that.

It's puzzling that you bought yourself a nice car only to skimp out on the one thing that connects your car to the road ... rubber. It's only natural that cheap rubber will not be as grippy as a set of Pirelli tyres.

Now, do you need to be turning your VDC off? Well, think about it for a second. Your VDC is engaging because it's sensing a loss of traction. What do you think is going to happen when you switch the VDC off? Especially when taking a brisk drive around the hills, you'll probably kill yourself or in the very least, cause damage worth more than what you saved by purchasing cheap tyres.

It really is a no-brainer and I'm all the more puzzled you would ask about turning off the VDC to fix the problem. Next time, raise your budget a little higher, take the time to save up a little more now before your tyres wear out and get a decent set. I'm not a fan of the Kumho KU31 that I was recommended at the time of compliancing but I certainly don't have the problem you do. For what it's worth, I paid $1200 for the set (so $300/tyre - 19") so if you want to still go easy on the wallet, that would be one tyre I can recommend after giving them a good workout. Personally, they're still not good enough and I do occasionally get a bit of slip turning a corner but certainly no problem around twists and bends. I dare say the 4WAS helps a lot in that aspect.

Another question, when i accelerate in a high gear but low rpm i hear some rattles from under the car (has nothing to do with speed), they aren't very loud - but i can hear something rattling when the engine is in low rpm and i accelerate - it's only brief and once i have speed or rpms the sound goes away. Anyone else had this issue? I'm thinking it's a loose heat shield or exhaust component.

Does this happen under load or can you replicate the issue when out of gear as well? If it's only under load, it's still possible that it could be just a bit of loose metal somewhere. However, I'd be curious to know if the brief sound you're hearing is pinging/knocking/pre-detonation. If it happens out of gear too, then it's most likely something loose.

What fuel do you use?

Edited November 5, 2012 by The Max

[itpesaf]

It happens under load, it sounds like it's coming from under the car and that it's some metallic component hitting another - like a rattle.

As for the tyres, I understand and 100% agree with what you say, however I had cheap tyres on my car before (achilies) and they were perfectly fine for my driving style... I've changed the air pressure in the rear tyres to match what I had on my old tyres and will drive a little more to see if I continue getting this problem. If I do I will be ringing my tyre shop and asking them to change them over for a more expensive/better tyre.

[n15m0]

I bought some federal 595s in 19s for the same price you paid for your china tires.

Plenty of skyline drivers swear by them.

http://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-tires/546784-federal-ss595-tires.html

[itpesaf]

Ok, so here's an update

Just went for a drive in the rain (very wet in Adelaide atm) and drove through the hills.. No vdc slip light..

I went through some corners that I had gone through yesterday at the same speed and no light, no traction control, nothing :S

I did change the tyre pressure, lowered it from 35psi to 30psi, and after about 40minutes driving I had no slip light. I'm thinking that I might have just had a stone or something stuck in my tyre yesterday (they're new so prone to that) which could have been causing one wheel to slip a little? I'm having a hard time trying to find out what was wrong lol, and trying to find out why these new tyres were causing the slip light to come on when my old tyres with hardly any thread and major camber wear never once caused the slip light to come on..

[SMOKEYV35]

Whatever helps you sleep at night - but tyres are always going to be a 'get what you pay for' scenario up to a certain spend level.

Btw - I've bought Achilles ATR in 19s (245 from 265 rear) on my BMW - and they were downright dangerous. Wet weather, pulling up to the lights the ABS would go nuts and the car would slip and shudder on only medium braking. In an emergency I'd give myself a slim chance. (Mind you, with a tread wear of 800 it shouldn't have been a surprise. Never again)

[whtbox]

It happens under load, it sounds like it's coming from under the car and that it's some metallic component hitting another - like a rattle.

Am i safe to assume your car is manual? If it is than your car might have been fitted with a lightened flywheel there it create a slight rattle under load and usually below 2000rpm. If so this is normal, if you believe your car is stock them there could be a problem as it stock have. Dual mass flywheel and usually rattle free or bare minimum rattle.

[itpesaf]

My car is manual, and there is a degree of clutch chatter when the clutch is not engaged, which I have been told is normal.

This sound is under/around 2k rpm, but it honestly sounds like a loose component rattling against something. I'll have to get it checked out at the mechanics sometime soon.

[whtbox]

My car is manual, and there is a degree of clutch chatter when the clutch is not engaged, which I have been told is normal.

This sound is under/around 2k rpm, but it honestly sounds like a loose component rattling against something. I'll have to get it checked out at the mechanics sometime soon.

Then it probably have Lightened flywheel fitted then the most common lightened flywheel would be Nismo flywheel or Jun flywheel. Nismo the quiter chatter compared to Jun version because the lighter it is the louder the chatter can happen. Also sometimes it could also caused by bad installation, etc. Good luck though.

Edited November 5, 2012 by pw350gt

[itpesaf]

ok heres an update -

VDC not working at all :S

Did a mini burnout today as I was getting sus as to why the slip lights where not turning on through corners and no vdc, no slip light nothing, just a burnout :S

[itpesaf]

just took it for another drive, did a proper burnout and the slip light flashed. tried a burnout with vdc turned off and there was a big difference lol.. I think I'm just getting a little silly now.

[sonicii]

i guess you don't plan on returning the tyres then??

[n15m0]

At this rate they probably need replacing soon anyway lol.

[itpesaf]

haha I know! all burnouts were done on private roads

Nah they actually grip pretty well lol - i was cornering quite hard last night in the rain with no slip at all!

Have no idea why the slip light was coming on so much the other day, but it might have something to do with either the tyre pressure because now that I've changed the pressure it seems to grip well, or a banana peel or something being stuck to one tyre causing it to slip a little . Either way I figured they should handle at least better than my old tyres with massive camber wear!

[rs88]

I was going from a cheap Chinese Tyre - Winrunn to ATR Achilles and they are good tyres for the money! Less VDC Slip on ATRs than the Winrunn.. so it's the tyres.. I'm running 275/30 r20 ... btw.. fill up with Nitrogen! Especially when you're running 30 series.. saves so much time trying to maintain proper pressure!

[sonicii]

I always fill my tyres with 78% nitrogen.. seems to work well enough!!