Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Battery in the boot is complete!

Had no issues at all.

Here's a few crap night photo's. It tidies up the engine bay alot!

20130125_204811_zps5b5a441d.jpg

20130125_204929_zpsd46e43f4.jpg

20130125_204905_zps8fa6651f.jpg

I didn't get a chance to paint that hold down clamp, that will be this weekends job.

  • Replies 193
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks a lot mate!

Yeah dude, that was most of the reason behind moving the battery to the boot as i wouldn't be able to fit a 3.5" intake there. Yeah the whole LHS of the engine bay will become the airbox, so i'll be able to do a nice intake with bugger all radius in the bend, if any at all. Once i get my new intake manifold to suit the Q45 throttle body i'll be starting the intake.

Edited by TimmyMA70

I test fitted my JMR headers today, I wanted to test fit them so i can order all the mandrel bends to make the mid pipe. They had a few minor fitting issues. Nothing I won't be able to iron out though :)

Cylinder 1 pipe was made a little too close to the alternator, we are talking millimeters. So I'll have to heat them up with the oxy and bend them a little.

I had to remove my AC lines to fit them, it was mainly the low pressure line that was fouling. Once I fitted them I put the lines back on, with a slight tweak you could get them to fit again, though I don't think I'm going to worry about it.

20130127_152529_zps90c43ead.jpg

Thanks mate :)

If I eventually get off these 12hr night shifts I'll be able to get a bit more done. The next thing will be a 3" exhaust. I rang all the local exhaust shops and a few in Sydney, though most shops want $900 upwards for a 3" mild steel catback, keep in mind I'll be supplying all my own cat, resonator and muffler.

I thought about it and I might have a go at making my own exhaust. Order all the things I'll need from bestmufflers.com.

My oldies have a workshop with a 4 post hoist and a mig etc. So might give it a crack, I'll think about it for the next few days and make a decision.

Another minor update, it wasn't necessary, though it will make tuning a bit easier.

20130206_194457_zps54fe4e50.jpg

20130206_194357_zps656b8083.jpg

I originally thought the top cam gear was a fake, I later confirmed off RHDJapan that the top cam gear was Tomei's earlier design. So all good :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...