Jump to content
SAU Community

Arc Intercooler Stencil For Repainting The Original Logo

kylieyeah
 Share

Recommended Posts

kylieyeah Community Regular

kylieyeah

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I was wondering if there existed a stencil for the ARC symbol for intercoolers.

I have a twin entry M079 ARC intercooler for a BNR34 but as you can see from the image below, the symbol has faded quite a bit. Although, it did start off as white colour.

I know I can print one out, but to get the exact height, width etc would almost be almost impossible.

cooler-1.jpg

Owgasm Grand Master

Owgasm

Posted
Posted

Wouldn't be too hard David.

Gave you got a sticker guy down there? They could measure it up and do their thing.

Measure the entire grill area and locate where the ARC stands. Then they print out a vinyl stencil cut out, spray away.

wedge_r34gtr Mentor

wedge_r34gtr

Posted
Posted (edited)

I wouldn't mind getting hold of the template if you can get one done aswell. You can't even make out the ARC letters on my cooler.

Also, just out of interest - have you got your bov's plumed back with this set-up and what intake set-up are you running? (stock box/pods/arc box etc)

Edited by wedge_r34gtr
kylieyeah Community Regular

kylieyeah

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Someone do the stencil thing as Owgasm recommended please and I'll buy it haha.

I've emailed ARC brazing to see if they can provide a stencil, but I highly doubt the chances of that happening.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

if you can still make out the writing (you can on yours, but this comment is also for others wanting the stencil as well), simply mask up along the edges of the writing (and then tape up some newspaper obviously) and then you can spray it. just do a few light coats to minimalise the spray getting in under the tape between the fins.

you could also make a stencil for future use if you wanted. simply mask it up, get a sheet of clear contact or sticker vinyl, stick it over the tape, get a craft knife and run it around the inside edge of the tape (making sure to leave little tabs to the inside of the A and the R so they always go back in the same spot every time). then pull it of and stick it back onto the backing, or some thin plastic. then simply cut out the stencil. or simply trace around on some tracing paper after masking up, and then you can trace it onto some contact to stick on next time you want to paint it.

kylieyeah Community Regular

kylieyeah

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Also need some hard pipes on that twin entry ;)

yeah, it's just not in the photo. The cooler and hard pipes are both on the car atm :)

if you can still make out the writing (you can on yours, but this comment is also for others wanting the stencil as well), simply mask up along the edges of the writing (and then tape up some newspaper obviously) and then you can spray it. just do a few light coats to minimalise the spray getting in under the tape between the fins.

I'll guess I'll try to do this first! Use masking tape, as making a stencil seems pretty hard. Although I guess the issue would be getting the curved edges to be exact. I guess I'll do a DIY if I try it and turns out something like this!

0714.jpg

Edited by kylieyeah
Miguelone Grand Master

Miguelone

Posted
Posted

making a stencil is pretty easy, get someone to load the vector up and print it to the correct size, , mark it up on some manila folder material etc, cut it out with a sharp blade, stick it over and spray it.

kylieyeah Community Regular

kylieyeah

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay guys! This method about making a stencil would be great!

If someone would like to make one, I will happily chip in with them and help get it made up. I just dont have any hook ups to a sticker/stencil maker or anything.

Would be great if someone could organise! I'm very keen on getting this ARC symbol looking new again and will do whatever is reasonable! :)

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

yeah, it's just not in the photo. The cooler and hard pipes are both on the car atm :)

I'll guess I'll try to do this first! Use masking tape, as making a stencil seems pretty hard. Although I guess the issue would be getting the curved edges to be exact. I guess I'll do a DIY if I try it and turns out something like this!

0714.jpg

if you use a thin tape to tape it up you should be able to get the curve right, as well as cutting it with a craft knife

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...