Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Started to hear a grinding noise from the front left when I hit the breaks on my way home for work today

I suspected that the pads must have been on the ware markers or at least the front left one was, not much of a surprise as they had done 20,000k plus 3 track days

Anyhow I babied the car home as soon as I noticed the noise

thought I may as well jack the car up and pull the wheel off to have a look at what the pads were like

Pads looked like they needed to be replaced still had some meat left on them, then as I stuck my head deeper into the wheel arch to check out the side of the disc facing the inside of the car I noticed that the surface of the disc looked chewed up

I find this all a bit strange as the car had no complaints on the track day and drove around just fine for the last 3 days

post-9102-0-83387200-1352625345_thumb.jpg

looks broke.

time to get it sorted. 3 track days and 20k kms is doing pretty well on a set of pads.

new pads and get the discs machined and bed the new ones back in, you'll be sorted.

I found that the last time I had discs machined they worked fine on the street but were rubbish on the track just didn't seem to work as well oh and one of them cracked...

were they machined below the minimum recommended thickness?

Should be fine if they are quality rotors, and have enough meat on them. But its up to you, if you want to buy new ones, buy some new rotors.

Not going to do any good trying to bed in a pad on that scratched up rotor.

Def not factory because they are slotted. Don't think anybody would be bothered cutting slots in a stock rotor.

Regards machining- I *think* minimum thickness is gauged by the depth of the slot. IE- when you have worn part of the slot off, then its time to replace. If this is the case, they are fine for machining becuase the slot is still clearly visable.

Yup I got the same thing happening, so I have to replace my front rotors soonish. I don't track this car, so I'm looking at DBA 4000 or Stoptech Power Slot or maybe Stoptech Sports Kit. Are the Stoptechs worth getting in compared to local products like DBA?

My front slotted rda's end up similar after a couple of hard track days.

My last ones were machined once and slots were about half worn off and still above wear limit. Unfortunately I suffer from warpage and got bad vibrations back through steering. I had to get another set and after a few 'heated' happy laps sessions on lakeside and QR they have started to go again. It is extremely important to give trhem a good cool down session before you pull up and park the car.

Unless you have the brembos our brakes are a bit light weght for track use. By the way I am using QFM A1RM pads. On my third set now.

Pretty sure it's not usually possible to machine slotted rotors. A lot of people won't do it because it's really rough on the machine and breaks the carbide tips.

If you're going to be doing a few track days a year, and you're chewing through rotors at this rate - maybe it's time to look at an upgrade? There isn't really any mystery at play here - heavy car that is relatively underbraked doing hard track work is going to consume brakes. Getting arguably bettery quality rotors (stoptech) might get you a couple more laps - but i don't think it's going to be a night and day difference, nor will it change the fact that the whole package just isn't up to the task you're asking of it on a track - which means you'll probably find yourself back here again in another 20,000km's.

There is a group buy going on 6-pot calipers with floating discs for under 2k in the group by section of this forum. It might seem like a big upfront cost but you will get a benefit out of the extra stopping power - be less demanding and cause less wear and tear on your stock units, depending on how long you keep the car you might break even in a shorter amount of time than you think

Or second hand Brembos F&R can be had for around the 2k mark?

Looked into the upgrade options but cant be stuffed to spend more money on the car especially with the prices V35s are selling for now :/

Pretty sure the Transgo kit was the last mod for the car

On the topic of rotors- my factory rotors and pads are in horrible shape, rotors have lines through them, are very glazed and beyond machining.

I've got in touch with Peter who is a vendor for RDA,

He's hooked me up with a brand new design from RDA, they are slotted and dimpled with new technology there's a few things he mentioned i can't remember.

Anyway, he's organising a set of 4 rotors + 4 EBC Red Stuff pads for the BREMBO edition, a total of $919 delivered to my door.

If anyone else is keen on this, let me know and i can arrange it through Peter. There is a 48 hour waiting time on these rotors as they are custom made for each order.

He made an ad for me on eBay, i'm not sure if you guys can see this or not but here they are.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121019111709?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...