Jump to content
SAU Community

Drift Vr Commodore

johnny boii

By johnny boii,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

johnny boii Enthusiast

johnny boii

Posted
Posted

hey guys hopefully wont get hell shut down for saying any of this but im looking at making my 5 litre manual commodore into a drift car i have coilovers thick swaybars front and back 3.9 diff gears mini spooled diff im in the process at building the engine so it should have like 250hp atw but a shit load of torque just wondering if anyone has done it before and if they had any issues with it. i would be getting a hydraulic handbrake set up stripping the interior and 2 buckets and harness setup but the massive question is what kind of power am i looking at to make it through barbs also note i am a beginner haha only wanted to go commodore cause not many people have em and i have had this car years and love it. if anyone has any objections as to why i shouldnt also please tell me why haha :)

cheers in advance

jai

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413945-drift-vr-commodore/
Share on other sites
mz.qiksky Explorer

mz.qiksky

Posted
Posted

You've got the power and torque. You need to stiffen it up.... seriously. Suspension, sway bars, bushes. What you've got at the moment is good for starting, but if you want to advance you'll need to stop the excess movement.

OptiC Enthusiast

OptiC

Posted
Posted

We had a driver in the Drift series two years ago who did really well in his commo ute. He was making about 300RWHP but with a heap of torque.

As suggested, get the suspension setup nice and stiff and you will be fine with 250HP to start. We teach newbies at the back section of the track which is where you will be for your first outing. Come out to the track and well help give some advice on next mods to make.

Drifting is a lot about car setup but when starting out its all about getting time in the seat and learning!

johnny boii Enthusiast

johnny boii

Posted
  • Author
Posted

nice cheers @optic i shall are you a teacher? i think ill just set my car up first and then come down be quicker to get it all done rather then doing it in bits hopefully dont get ripped on for a commo ahah i have a 33 aswell but to nice to drift ahha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • WMDC35
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...