Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mate this feller is the go if u want any rb25/26 rebuilt I just got mine done for a absolutely amazing price I highly recommend this feller over any rebuilder in the western suburbs of sydney I won't go no other builder !!! He has done the job and he done it perfect :) I'd be taken our engines to him and him only

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414112-st-marys-engines-nsw/
Share on other sites

Mate it's a fully forged build all brand new brand new turbos with steel wheel obviously new fuel pump and brand new injectors yes it's will be getting run in on the dyno had experience with lots of rebuilds

Using new parts is not evidence of a good build. Bad engine builders also use new parts. He may be great engine builder, or the opposite, but if you cant mount an explanation of why you believe he's good, you're just some guy on the Internet saying stuff.

I actually know the guys at St Mary's Engines well. Geoff & Brett mainly specialise is Mopar stuff but yes they are very good at what they do, very down to earth people.

They know how to build engines. Any of the Mopar days you'll see them down at the drags.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...