Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

parting out my r32 gtr race car

gtr gearbox with osgiken gearset+sandwich plate nismo short shifter all new bearing though out box installed when the os giken parts installed.gearbox has done very little work done 7 trackdays and in that time i have replaced oil 3 times. i have spent well over $7000 in parts alone

$5500

Alcon 380mm brake kit suit front has rotors,caliper,pads(fs2500)adapter plate will just fit under 18x10.5 rims direct bolt up nothing else needed. i have done 1 track day about 20laps of wakefeild park these are like new.these are the next level down from the v8 supercar brakes

$6000

K-sport 355mm rear brake kit comes with full conversion just bolt up i have done 7 track days with these pads in them have done 2 track days still in excellent condition

$1800

Bc coilovers ER series has the standard spring rates 10 front 8 rear these are the best bang for buck coilovers. i have managed to do a 1min.03.7sec around wakefeild and 1min.38.1 around eastern creek with this suspension i do recommend to go heavier spring rates to go faster.springs are $77 each if you want to upgraded.this have done 7 trackdays these are in perfect working order as well

$1200

Formula Ikeya front and rear fully adjustable arms these have done 7 trackdays no crashes no kerb hitting are in perfect shape both are the lower control arms for front and rear

$1800

Defi guages oil pressure,oil temp,water temp,boost up to 2bar and unit with all connections all mounted on a plate that sits where the aircon and radio sit

$1300

will have more parts for sale at a later date

only selling car to convert back to a road car i have driven car 7 times in 3 years

want to enjoy car a little more

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414857-gtr-high-performance-parts/
Share on other sites

gtr gearbox with osgiken gearset+sandwich plate nismo short shifter all new bearing though out box installed when the os giken parts installed.gearbox has done very little work done 7 trackdays and in that time i have replaced oil 3 times. i have spent well over $7000 in parts alone

$5500 now $5000

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...