Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Took my car for a drive today and after about 20 or so minutes I could feel the car didn't want to roll, afew minutes later it got even worse to the point where I had to go from 4th to 2nd just to keep it moving

I stopped and smoke was coming from back brakes and pedal was hard

I let it sit for about an hour to cool and drove it back home no problems until I was just in my street and it started again

I took the rear pads out and I couldn't put both pistons in at the same time, it was asif somfin was stopping the fluid from returning

I'm about to change the fluid tomorow, can I be this? Or could it be the master cylinder?

Car is r32 Gtr with 33 Gtr brembos all around with braided lines, was like that when I bought it and have never changed the fluid in my ownership (9 months)

Any help would be great !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414980-rear-brakes-locking-up-when-hot/
Share on other sites

Pretty sure it's not the handbrake shoes because the rear brake calipers and disc surface where the pad goes we're extremely hot, I can see afew heat blisters on the caliper due to the heat

I'm gonna change the master cylinder and brake fluid today nd see how it goes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...