Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 136
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It's cool Jack, i know what you are getting at.

My point is, why see a power figure or a boost level and get fixated on it...? Without knowing any of the other variables, figures are just that : figures.

Don't forget, it is a business funded car promoting that business.

summoner,

Good on them all mate, but they are not the only ones that are doing it. There are workshops getting big hp on pump fuel across the country. Are you insinuating that, the Perth boys are a step ahead...? Cause that's the feeling i get from some of the posts, hence the reason i put that remark in ( ) in my previous post.

Emre, yeah I know what you mean, its just a figure at the end of the day!!!! I guess 1/4 mile times speak louder words than dyno figures.....

summoner- I don't know whether you are being sarcastic or not but how is WA ahead of everybody else?? Is there any proof??? And you also say that you can comment from 'experience' and what you have seen.... At the age of 21???

dont most of the guys in wa use dynapac, we see dream figure coming out of the states also.

unless i see it  in the flesh, i take dyno figures witha grain of salt.

The best in the west certainly does not use dynapack and his dyno dynamics dyno is extremely accurate - if anyone can reduce a chart I will attach my latest chart (not the one below)

Jezzzr that you Jeremy with teh daily 33 and w/end 34? :rofl:

As said, the best in WA use DD units which have been accredited by DD themselves. Only speedworks use the Dynapack and 1 other workshop I think. Majority of places are Dyno Dynamics.

I agree with the SOTP dyno, works best since end of day something like dynapack, Dyno Dynamics, Dynojet and all the others are just tuning tools.

Jack,

I'm taking my car into ICE either this Saturday or Early next week (just waiting for the boys to let me know), see if you can have your car there the same time. To add a bit of spice to the showdown, lets put a wager on it "Winner Shouts".. in that case I'll have a bottle Chivas Regal Royal Salute, an espresso & maybe some dessert if you don't mind thanks :D

:)

Jezzzr that you Jeremy with teh daily 33 and w/end 34? :D

As said, the best in WA use DD units which have been accredited by DD themselves. Only speedworks use the Dynapack and 1 other workshop I think. Majority of places are Dyno Dynamics.

I agree with the SOTP dyno, works best since end of day something like dynapack, Dyno Dynamics, Dynojet and all the others are just tuning tools.

yeah mate thats me.

On a serious note is anyone really claiming that one side of the continent has a mortgage on tuning ability ? I am certainly not buying into that sort of shit, at the end of the day its a science (and perhaps somewhat of an art) and the "formula" is available to all good tuners.

summoner - ready for battle!!!!! hehe

meshmesh - sounds sweet, let me know exactly when and I'll try and organise it... Do I hear a challenge?!?!? j/k

Well guys just got back from Calder tonight and if dyno figures aren't your cup of tea, well then heres the results form the 1/4 mile:

11.6 @119mph

Not a bad effort, was expecting mid to high 11's...

One thing I noticed was how hard it was to launch the bastard!!!! With the standard turbos I would normally launch it at 6.5 - 7k rpm, and it would more or less braek traction but tonight, it was bogging down hard off the line at about 7k rpm, and couldn't better a 12.3 all night, with 2.2 60ft times!!!!!

This became too frustrating so there was not much else to do than hit 8k rpm and side step the clutch!!!! and presto, an 11.9 followed by an 11.6 on the very last run...

Obviously being the 10cm version of the T517Z's, it wouldn't get boost off the line at around 7k rpm, causing it to bog down to 2k rpm, which resulted in 2.2-2.4 60ft times...

So therefore I might have to do something about the lag, not too keen on 8k launches, maybe adjust cam gears for low end power, or even change dump pipes, just to get the turbos boosting earlier....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...