Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yaar!

Its time for something thats not jdm style

thats why its soooo hard to find wheels to suit.

if you have any suggestions......

simmons.

aust style.

or 40"chromies with spinners, us gangstar styke.

  • Like 1

Yaar!

Its time for something thats not jdm style

thats why its soooo hard to find wheels to suit.

if you have any suggestions......

http://www.jegs.com/p/Bassett-Wheels/Bassett-Lightweight-D-Hole-Wheels/1528607/10002/-1

simmons.

aust style.

or 40"chromies with spinners, us gangstar styke.

Simmons $845 per wheel :O

pity, they would be nice

Lot of final measuring and cutting done today, welding tomorrow.

Then more bits n pieces, brackets and things.

Should be done by the weekend.

Simmons $845 per wheel :O

pity, they would be nice

Lot of final measuring and cutting done today, welding tomorrow.

Then more bits n pieces, brackets and things.

Should be done by the weekend.

unfortunately, quality non jap wheels cost.

Fixed my Central Locking. :woot:

Seems the little Die Cast Clamp dealie that holds 2 of the Rods together had loosened up, so I tightened the screws, so it Broke. :(

Anything can be fixed with cable ties though. :thumbsup:

post-78856-0-40590900-1374567416_thumb.jpg

Just to be sure, I used 3 cable ties in a figure 8 around the rods.

Today it works!

Hopefully tomorrow it does too. :unsure:

While I had it all apart I put in my spare window switch. (works better too) :)

Managed to break this recently so just sourcing a replacement to put back on

"variable intake control solenoid valve or known as valve control"

Beleive the OEM part number is 14930 - aa0a Nissan 149309E010

although has FDB A200 OJO OW9320

Edited by Sinista32

Only Grass I have is Fake. (tis the "Sydney Blend")

Chucked in my new floor mats (need a clean but REALLY good nick.) :woot:

car needs a clean too.

post-78856-0-11700800-1374672027_thumb.jpg

and received an Apexi Safc 2 in the mail for More Wasps.

all cooz Taxi.

You have nice green grass Mik !

Have to get it ready for spring playtime for bubs.

Added little end bits for the corners, and getting the brackets sorted.

I hope its in the right spot, its hard to tell exactly where it should be. 5-10mm off will make a big ugly gap when the bar goes on.

post-89755-0-73933400-1374742861_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...