Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Wondering if any of the Brissy / Gold Coast boys can suggest a decent steel supplier. I've found pretty big discrepanies in pricing over the years, so definitely worth shopping around. My usual supplier (South East Steel at Molendinar) has shut up shop, which is a shame because he was regularly 20-30% cheaper than anywhere else (maybe that's why they went bust?)

I'm doing the ring around and getting quotes from several suppliers (those who are prepared to answer phones, anyway) but was wondering if anyone knows of a good supplier I could talk to, maybe speed up the process.

I won't be buying in commercial quantities, so no point looking at a wholesaler who expects to sell 20 tonnes of steel a year before giving any discounts.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415806-steel-merchants-in-se-qld/
Share on other sites

Don't all answer at once :P

I've sent off 6 RFQ's (2 of the 8 suppliers I tried to contact have had their phone number cancelled, so I can only imagine they've moved on).

Have received 4 quotes so far, and there's definiltley variation in the pricing. The biggest variation was for 5mm plate where the dearest was 124% dearer (yes, more than double the price) than the cheapest. The other stuff (RHS, angle, flat) saw a variation of 16% to 53% between the cheapest and dearest.

So far there doesn't seem to be any one supplier that's cheapest in every area. Some are cheap on one product, and dear on another. They will all deliver for around $50, too (looking at about a tonne of steel).

Definitely an interesting exercise. Shows that depending on what you're after, it's worth shopping around.

I guess you would call it industrial, although it's at the small end of the scale (up to 25x50 RHS, flat, angle, SHS). Do you mean plain mild steel tubing, or more exotic stuff (CrMo, CDS etc)? I had a bit of a search for your thread on tubing but couldn't find it. Care to post a link?

yeah i ment exhaust and cooler tube suppliers only, doesn't mean we cant have a big thread for industrial, cage and also thin tube suppliers as it should help out others

Edited by Dan_J

For cage material at the moment

Race tech are far cheaper for bare minimum CDW tubing than anyone else.

For 4130, performance metals have the best German milled material I've welded for a while.

I found to buy everyday material like RHS etc it was way cheaper to buy constantly from a local light fabrication shop that was buying tonnes per week. Despite paying his slight mark up it is still cheaper than buying direct from wholesalers when your quantity is comparatively low.

I was going to get it all in raw lengths (looks like about 45 full lengths in assorted sizes atm). Will need to get the plate cut though. I'm ordering 3 sheets of 5mm plate (2400x1200) and need to cut them into 800mm x 1200mm lengths. Was considering water cutting, as that gives a nice clean cut. I have a plasma cutter which should give fairly good cuts. Failing that I can always resort to the good ol' 1mm cutting discs on the grinder.

All the RHS, angle, flat etc I'll just chop to length with my drop saw. It will be getting a good workout int he new year.

Out of interest, how much do you charge for laser cutting? As I said, cutting 3 full sheets into 3 pieces each (6 cuts in total)

I work in the Engineering/Operating side so I can't give you a quote.

But I can probably organise one for you with the sales guys.

If you're talking about getting 3 sheets essentially cut down the middle I think the Lasercutting component would be very small.

Obviously they would also be able to organise material for you if you needed.

5mm steel cuts beautifully if the material is good quality.

With tube we can cut anything up to and around 12 meters in length, true 3d beveling etc.

we cut alot of roll cage stuff already.

Let me know if you want to know anymore warps.

Thanks for the offer, but Risking's suggestion makes perfect sense. Hadn't even thought of a guillotine before. Will give that a try first. It'll make the sheets easier to manage at my end too (didn't fancy trying to manoeuvre 113kg sheets of steel without plate clamps or a decent crane / forklift)

Most of the stuff I'm making won't need anything fancier than right angle cuts, so no need for fancy bevels. Will keep it in mind for future projects though (already have a few more projects on thr drawing board)

The first project will be a steel rack so I can store and sort all this steel I'm buying.

No problems mate,

straight cuts are really a waste of what the machine can do to be honest, it's amazing the profiles the tube laser can cut.

On another note, if you're looking for steel, have you tried this place ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icIwKaci3MI

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
×
×
  • Create New...