Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there. Just started to put a wide body kit onto my r32 and was trying to find out the best products to use to put the rear gards on. I want it to flow nicely not have the bolted on effict so my thougths so far are to sicker flex them and also screw them on. Over that i would fiberglass the seams over to get a seamless effect. over that just a light skim of bog to get rid of any impofections. thats my idea of how to do this but would apreaseate your thougts or if there is a better way of doing this thanks

Hi there. Just started to put a wide body kit onto my r32 and was trying to find out the best products to use to put the rear gards on. I want it to flow nicely not have the bolted on effict so my thougths so far are to sicker flex them and also screw them on. Over that i would fiberglass the seams over to get a seamless effect. over that just a light skim of bog to get rid of any impofections. thats my idea of how to do this but would apreaseate your thougts or if there is a better way of doing this thanks

Don't use sika flex it shrinks and your bog n paint will fall off

Use tiger seal from U POL

Or bostik

Or Fusor can't remember the part #

you should use glass bog too for strength or actually fibreglass them on after bonding

Edited by Carbon 34

Wen I did mine, I only cut away panel work around the top of wheel arches, then tapped the inner gaurd up to it and rewelded to the skin. I test riveted new skin on to get alignment right and maked where it met the bodyline and needed blended. Took gaurd off, then peeled the paint off at the joining points, and ruffed the metal up to key the glue and fibreglass. Can't really remember what glueI used. Something that doesn't expand as it sets, and rivited on.

Left for a good 1-2 days to set, then keyed the fibreglass panel, and fibreglassed quite a thick layer onto the panel and car, so there was plenty of "meat" to sand flat, meaning I didn't need to put much bog in. Just to fill couple lil bubble holes as I sanded glass back. That was all done 2 years ago with no cracks to date. Was a very time consuming job, but looks factory all finished. Much tidyer than the riveted on look.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...