Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

i've put replacement 4x6 and 6.5 coax into the car.

I have a alpine 9833 hu which has t/a.

what is the best way to move the sound stage forward without losing bass (which is what happens when I use the fader).

can t/a account for speaker sizes or just distance?

ideally i'd like to jus trun the 6.5 coax in the rear as woofers for bass, maybe run them off some component crossovers for woofer only?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416060-r32-move-sound-stage/
Share on other sites

hi

i've put replacement 4x6 and 6.5 coax into the car.

I have a alpine 9833 hu which has t/a.

what is the best way to move the sound stage forward without losing bass (which is what happens when I use the fader).

can t/a account for speaker sizes or just distance?

ideally i'd like to jus trun the 6.5 coax in the rear as woofers for bass, maybe run them off some component crossovers for woofer only?

Well lets see

Time alignment =T.A for those at home

Time alignment doesn't need speaker size ( some TA uses it for a baseline but not required )

But it can take into account the bandwidth / freq response of the car and your actual speaker while running a test tone if your RTA / MiC the car

Your speaker selection sadly is prob the worse option for SQ you could have

SQ sounds best with no rears or just bass in the rear ( surround sound is different setup then SQ car)

the 4x 6 will never cut a front stage unless its a plate 4x6 with a separate mid and tweet on a plate and even then the speakers are sub standard

The only way to use the existing rears is put a coil on them and cut the tweeters off the system Not wise but can be done , easier to do a 6.5 sub box in a band pass box ported thru the rear deck holes( don't laugh at the size the highest scoring car in IASCA SQ history runs 6.5 in a band pass box) they can pound for so small , they won't blow your hair back but sound damn nice

So best option ditch current speakers do a custom setup , custom install ( not cut the car)

a decent amp or plan for one ,2channel, or 4 , or two one for fronts one for sub

Or 5 channel , run the fronts active ( one channel to each speaker for tonnes of headroom punch) and sub

And road kill the doors, rear deck metal, min

speakers down with tweeters below mids ,low actually move the stage forward and slightly up by placing the speakers further from your ears

dash or A pillar speakers may sound brighter but floods the windshield with sound and blurs the separation of instruments , and can be very harsh , amplify noise ( hiss, whine etc)

a RTA test can see the peaks and valleys and noise floor

if you lower the noise floor by 3db it's the same as doubling your amp power !! ( noise floor is the sound with nothing on in a quiet location or engine on , radio on but volume down all the way ) normal house noise floor is about 50-60db

A skyline at idle can be 80-100db

My car with just sound deadened is so quiet inside you can listen to the iPhone speaker on the highway with it in the console !!

Without it you can't hear it at all with windows up!! And my car isn't that loud compared to some around

If there is interest I would draw up diagrams of setups sooner rather then mid next year lol

Edited by Carbon 34

i will prob go 6.5 splits in the new year. still not sure if i want a sub or not as i don't want to lose any space.

i tried to put in my alpine type s coax 6.5 in the door with a 12mm spacer, i got it to clear the window but then i couldn't put the door trim on.'

i think when i get splits i'll get a pro to install it.

i will prob go 6.5 splits in the new year. still not sure if i want a sub or not as i don't want to lose any space.

i tried to put in my alpine type s coax 6.5 in the door with a 12mm spacer, i got it to clear the window but then i couldn't put the door trim on.'

i think when i get splits i'll get a pro to install it.

Yeah that would be a drastic difference

You can put in a sub that uses 0 space

One fits behind the panel or in the spare tyre ( actually in the spare not the well)

Depending on your model you can do other things as well

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...