Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

i am looking at getting an RB20DET for my skyline R31...

At The Moment i just have a Couple of Quick Question..

does the RB20DET loom bolt Str8 up into the existing rb30 loom spot and computer??

Do you need to run an after market ignition System, like microtech or something like that?

Does the Rb20DET bolt straight up to the standard rb30 engine mounts?

Is it worth having an LSD or is standard Single Spinner Diff Good?

Do the Standard Brakes Stop it? or is it worth upgrading them??

but something has got me stumped here, How do you start the things when they run coils and transistor unit? can i adapt the rb30 ignition loom into it or something like that?

Does the Fuel Pump Need upgrading??

Thanks for you help all...

:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41627-info-on-r31-with-rb20det/
Share on other sites

You are probably best off getting a front-cut, where you will get the engine and a loom & ECU. Otherwise, you will require an aftermmarket system. There is no way the R31 ECU will run a RB20 - as you pointed out, the RB20 runs multiple coils (triggered by a CAS), while the RB30 runs a distributor.

The RB20 will slot straight in on the R31 mounts.

yea i know that but i can get an RB20DET Eccs out of an R32 with a LOOM and computer, and im wondering if i wire that all up and put the computer in the spot where the rb30e computer goes, how is it going to fire off the coils and stuff, because i dont really want to get an Aftermarket Computer and wiring loom for it because i wanna keep it a simple project...

If you get a RB20DET loom and ECU, they will have everything required to run the engine, including working the ignition system. All you need to do is pull out the RB30 ECU and loom, and replace it with the RB20 ECU and loom. I'm guessing the RB20 ECU will mount in the same spot as the RB30's (that's where the RB20 mounts - behind the passenger kick panel).

yea it does but, how can i run the aussie dash with the rb20det ? like temp gauge and oil pressure gauges in the aussie dash? also would i use a R32 Starter motor loom and adapt it to the battery so i can start the rb20det??

Starter motor loom??

You basically are using the RB20DET engine loom (start motor would be off that i assume), the RB20DET ECU, and from that you splice into the dash loom to get your little gizmos working. But most of that stuff is separate to all the engine sensors and that sort of thing.

All your coil firing and ignition stuff will be controlled from the RB20DET ECU, so don't stress about that side of things.

Some adaptions need to be made also, i believe for the fuel pump system, and other bits and pieces such as the guages, speedo, tacho, etc.

Anyhow, I will admit I am just going from what I have read, not done. Bozz knows all.. In fact just bolt it in and pay him $500 or whatever he charges to wire it up for you :)

Apparently not massive difference between stopping power of R31 and R32 brakes, so not required to be changed for engineering in many states.

LSD would be nice.. you're going to have troubles with the single spinner and feeding power through it to the ground on takeoff. A diff specialist told me the borg warner *should* be strong enough in terms of holding out (e.g. not go cactus), but LSD would be better. The single spinner should handle the power and stay alive for a while, if you don't do massive burnouts, take it a bit easier right off the line, and crap like that.

and before you ask.. no you can't fit an LSD from any import model skyline in. You'll have to get an aussie B/W LSD that fits the housing.. can be hard to find these days. Expect to pay around $1k to go to an LSD.

Apparently not massive difference between stopping power of R31 and R32 brakes, so not required to be changed for engineering in many states.  

All turbo R31's had bigger brakes factory standard, and in Victoria a brake upgrade is required for an engineers certificate.

hey mate, i just finished doing the saame conversion about 4 weeks ago, these guys pretty much covered it, you will need to pull the temp sender out of the rb30 and putit into the rb20det, and same with the speed sensor that screws into the side of the gearbox. as for the tacho, you need to run a seperate 12v inpput onto the line with a 10kohm .5 watt resistor between the 12v and tacho signal wire. beasides that i used the alternator air con pumps off the rb30, they bolt straight on, its all pretty much bolt straight on stuff, also your turbo dump wont exactly fit you zorst so u may need a custom peice made up, i used a rb25 zorst between turbo and cat and it fit really well. besaides that its pretty easy. good luck, any other quest, let me know.

ahh ok, i currently have got turbo Import brakes on my R31 atm which would probably be good for the turbo conversion, although i dont think i would run powersteering because the racks always leak oil out (trw), but yea i can easily get that zorst system made up... i think id buy another clean skyline and work an rb20det into that one...

thanks for you help all....

ahh ok, i currently have got turbo Import brakes on my R31 atm which would probably be good for the turbo conversion, although i dont think i would run powersteering because the racks always leak oil out (trw), but yea i can easily get that zorst system made up... i think id buy another clean skyline and work an rb20det into that one...

thanks for you help all....

i sent u a pm, make saure to check it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...