Jump to content
SAU Community

Motec M800 With An Rb20

nisskid

By nisskid,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, recently was given a M800 to go with my current setup, which is an RB20, TD06-20G on E85 running 25psi, wanting to go from ground up with the wiring as i'm done with stock wiring and the bullshit that comes with it. As someone who hasn't done this before, i'm looking for as much advice about every aspect of rewiring an engine in general, although anything specific to installing an Motec M800 or similar ECU, and anything specific to RB20's as well. Wiring diagrams, sensors, tips and tricks, wiring specs, tooling, anything you can think of that would help, as mentioned i'm fairly new to wiring aftermarket ecu's in. So far i just have the ecu unit, and some wiring with plugs, it's a 2nd hand unit, so not sure exactly what i will have to buy to support it etc.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416317-motec-m800-with-an-rb20/
Share on other sites
Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

basically you'll need to buy a new flying loom

once you have that its a matter of starting from scratch, working out where the ecu will be mounted and running the lengths of wires to their correct locations and then cut, crimp new terminals and plugs on and wrap it all up in quality conduit/sheathing.

try and avoid soldering anything... everything must be crimped, checked and then heatshrinked then wrapped

make sure loom is not tight in any spots, allow for engine flex, and keep it well away from heat.

you'll need an array of wiring equiptment, crimpers, cutters, strippers, heatshrink, conduit etc

or just pay decs to do it ;)

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Make sure ALL vital signals such as all analogue and important digital signals are all shielded from the sensor all the way back to the ECU. Ground one end of the shield at the ECU end.

Shielded sensors will be;

CAS

TPS

MAP Sensor

Intake Air Temp

Coolant Temp

Oil Temp

Oil Pressure

Knock Sensors

Another bit of advice is to make up a map and a list of everything to be wired to the ECU, how many wires and which pins are used for each sensor and so on. Plan it before you attack it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • MBS206
      remote oil cooler hose size, 8,10 or an12?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...