Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, apparently my car (I'm not the first owner since import) managed to sneak through compliance without having the HID lights removed. Only problem is that I've moved interstate (NT) and they do a compliance check (in addition to roadworthy) when you transfer registration from interstate.

I'm told I'll either need to have them modified to be self-levelling and have spray washers installed, or change them back to halogen. I assume changing them back to halogen is cheaper, however what will I need to do this apart from disconnecting the ballast? Since pretty much nobody does this willingly I can't really find out what to do and would rather do it myself if it doesn't require actual rewiring (as opposed to changing a harness or something).

I imagine you will need some sort of adaptor to fit the halogen lamps into the existing holder. (Some dodgy compliance workshops glue them on!!)

Then cut the 12V cables that feed the ballasts and fit an appropriate halogen lamp connector.

If you are Planning on re-connecting the HIDs then just splice into the 12V cables rather than cutting. It will make swapping back easier.

Sorry if I wasnt clear; I did already take it in (to the compliance place), and was told as above. Thanks sonicii, I'll have look around and see if there's any places that are confident of doing it I guess.

Edited by ObiV35
  • 5 weeks later...

What they havent told you is that it is illegal to fit a different type of globe into a reflector designed for HID, so fitting the self levelling thing is the only correct thing to do... Just dont tell them that theyve asked you to do something illegal or theyll get upset ..

i'd just take out the HID bulb and use the fog beam instead. There is no reason why you cant use the fog beam as a low beam. According to ADR's, the reflector is within the correct height tolerance from the ground, it is within the right distance from the cars width, and is the correct wattage, it only needs the beam height set...

then once the car is signed off, go home and put the HID bulbs back in. happy days

What they havent told you is that it is illegal to fit a different type of globe into a reflector designed for HID, so fitting the self levelling thing is the only correct thing to do... Just dont tell them that theyve asked you to do something illegal or theyll get upset ..

Are you sure?? can you supply a reference?

It would be strange that the requirement for these cars to meet ADR is the HIDs are replaced with halogens.. when this doesn't comply with ADRs??

Also, HIDs require headlight washers.. not just auto leveling.

its all in here..

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/motor/design/adr_online.aspx

the section referring to headlamps, and the section referring to filament lamps, both state that the "E" marking on approved ADR headlights will be void if modified without testing and approval, ie: installing a globe that is not the same as the globe type marked on the rear of the light assembly, due to filament and reflector misalignment.

Its up to you what you want to do, i personally wouldnt want to cut the loom and get rid of the HID components.

Just jump through their hoops to get it through compliance and rego.

Mine came fitted with halogens due to compliance. All they had done is unplug the ballasts, jammed a single fillament bulb in there (the high beam is a dual fillament bulb with the fog) and tap a wire from the bulb to the ballast plug.

I've seen a lot of cars have the fog lamps disabled for compliance. Mine had the relay removed in fuse box behind the battery.

Once they sign it off and you have rego, put the HID bulbs back in and plug the ballast back in. Just stick to the low temperature color bulbs (I think it's 4000k?) so you don't attract the wrong kind of attention, like it's really obvious people have HID's when they use 6000k or higher bulbs.

But wouldn't part of the RAWS compliance approval process include testing and approval for headlight modification to meet ADR requirements?

this is the annoying bit. it is as illegal to fit HID globes to a regular headlight reflector as it is to fit a filament globe into a HID reflector. In both cases they are designed to have the correct parts fitted.

as usual, government standards allow a downgrade to crappier filament globes. double standards.

Youll find that the RAWS process only signs off that it is no longer HID, infact they do no testing at all of the replacement install regarding light output

this is the annoying bit. it is as illegal to fit HID globes to a regular headlight reflector as it is to fit a filament globe into a HID reflector. In both cases they are designed to have the correct parts fitted.

A double standard isn't too surprising from the government.. They probalby just overlook the 'non-stanard' lamp for compliance purposes..

I guess if they leave the HIDs in, they also breach the requirement for HID headlights to have washers and auto leveling.. least of 2 evils maybe??

  • 3 weeks later...

Just to reply back, I got an auto sparky to fix my compliance issue. I was busy/lazy so it took me a while to get around to doing it. It now has modified H7 globes in there but all the wiring is still intact. Only 2 hours labor :) It would have taken me a lot longer, haha.

Thanks for all the info/advice.

the ballasts are disconnected but not removed. I believe a standard H7 socket is in there, spliced straight from the original power before the ballasts? The D2R socket is still in there, just moved to the side. I think he had to modify the frame of the H7 globe so it would fit in the same spot.

see: http://www.consumabulbs.com/photo/499.jpg

  • 3 months later...

how do i see if the balasts is disconnected im not even sure of where theyre located. This is a picture of mine. Could i just plug in the bulb and it will work need to figure this out before i spend on the bulbs and to find i have to do a lot more.

post-77241-0-27345900-1371435926_thumb.jpg

post-77241-0-44834600-1371435936_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess when I say it's a POS I mean.. the solution and the stuff has the capacity for maybe... 1 spot. You know, as a spot cleaner. What I really *want* is the ability to do an entire car, all upholstery, all carpet, mats, all seats, door card inserts, A pillars, roof liners, etc. In one go. I get lured by all the jank that comes out and think "I'd like to be able to clean to that degree"
    • I've got one (not the car one, the domestic spot cleaner one, which is basically the same jobbie) and have driven it hard for hours and hours at a time. Grimy sofas, 6' floor rugs, etc. I'd blame your specific example rather than the whole category. I haven't used mine in the car, because.... you know, it's my car. So there is no-one else's ball sweat in the driver's seat, there's no kid food/drink spills or hand prints inside because they've never had an opportunity to put them there. You know, basic, standard Skyline rules.
    • I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up!   For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.
    • Probably because they couldn't, because the use of the variable resistor to create a "signal" in the ECU is managed by the ECU's circuitry. The only way that VDO could do it would be if they made a "smart" sensor that directly created the 0-5V signal itself. And that takes us back to the beginning. Well, in that case, you could do the crude digital (ie, binary, on or off) input that I mentioned before, to at least put a marker on the trace. If you pressed the button only at a series of known integer temperatures, say every 2°C from the start of your range of interest up to whatever you can manage, and you know what temperature the first press was at, then you'd have the voltage marked for all of those temperatures. And you can have more than one shot at it too. You can set the car up to get the oil hot (bypass oil coolers, mask off the air flow to oil coolers, and/or the radiator, to get the whole engine a bit hotter, then give it a bit of curry to get some measurements up near the top of the range.   On the subject of the formula for the data you provided, I did something different to Matt's approach, and got a slightly different linear formula, being Temp = -22.45*V + 118.32. Just a curve fit from Excel using all the points, instead of just throwing it through 2 points. A little more accurate, but not drastically different. Rsquared is only 0.9955 though, which is good but not great. If you could use higher order polynomials in the thingo, then a quadratic fit gives an excellent Rsquared of 0.9994. Temp = 2.1059*V^2 - 34.13*V + 133.27. The funny thing is, though, that I'd probably trust the linear fit more for extrapolation beyond the provided data. The quadratic might get a bit squirrely. Hang on, I'll use the formulae to extend the plots.... It's really big so you can see all the lines. I might have to say that I think I really still prefer the quadratic fit. It looks like the linear fit overstates the temperature in the middle of the input range, and would pretty solidly understate what the likely shape of the real curve would say at both ends.
    • I got a hand held bisssel one and it's a piece of shit. Doesn't work for more than about 5 seconds. So much so that I nearly refuse to believe any wet dry vac actually works or has enough suction to clean the carpet of a car. I'm discouraged as all the good ones are $300+ for an unknown result. I saw MCM did a Ryobi video where they use this thing: https://www.ryobi.com.au/products/stick-vacuum-cleaners/18v-one-hptm-brushless-spot-cleaner-tool-only Anyone have any experience actually using a tool like this when not paid to showcase it?
×
×
  • Create New...