Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's got less kms than your motor, so should by all accounts be in better condition. If you are doing that, put a little amount of copper seal around the plug Seals.

I think there is a rubber line outer seal to replace too, that sits in the cover? Scotty? Should only be a couple of bucks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205239
Share on other sites

Yeh, the rocker gasket is around $25.

I don't like putting sealant around them, as a thin smear might fall off and partially block the oil pump or pickup (as there is nothing to hold the sealant in place). I try to minimise the use of silicone inside the engine for this reason.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205256
Share on other sites

Should tell nissan that... Whole thing is held together with sealant! :P

I never had an issue with it when I was changing sumps over. No sealant disappeared. As long as the instructions are followed, the stuff works well.

If you use tons of it, and clamp it down hard immediately, then your right, you're in for a bad time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205318
Share on other sites

I will say it again for the deaf among us... There is nothing to hold the sealant in place, and nothing to clamp it.

As the tube is covered in oil the sealant won't stick, and there isn't another mating surface to hold it in place, hence why it will break off and float about the engine. It's a slightly different application to sealing the sump as there is a 20mm lip holding the silicone in place, plus you would be able to scrape it clean first and brake clean it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205325
Share on other sites

I see what Scotty means.

The sealant wouldn't help. It's just a thin metal edge.

Yes, but Nissan still used a little sealant on the cover gasket, at least mine had some when I removed it. Someone should tell those engineers the theory & see what they think....

On sealing around the spark plug tube, totally agree - it's pointless. Better to syringe it out every so often than risk it.

Edited by Commsman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205404
Share on other sites

Yes, but Nissan still used a little sealant on the cover gasket, at least mine had some when I removed it. Someone should tell those engineers the theory & see what they think....

On sealing around the spark plug tube, totally agree - it's pointless. Better to syringe it out every so often than risk it.

It would have just been nice for them to just round off the spark plug tubes at the end to just a little flat surface, so it would seal better. But alas, I suppose the accountants got in their ear. Probably one of those will it last 3 years/100k kms things. Even the old honda I had (honda boi!) had a better mating surface.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205433
Share on other sites

It would have just been nice for them to just round off the spark plug tubes at the end to just a little flat surface, so it would seal better. But alas, I suppose the accountants got in their ear. Probably one of those will it last 3 years/100k kms things. Even the old honda I had (honda boi!) had a better mating surface.

How do you deal with no vtec? It must be so boring driving your s13.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205494
Share on other sites

Hahahahahah

My little shitbox didn't even have vtec! It was a uni student car.

I think it was before the whole vtec fan boi thing. The vtec models were pretty expensive in 2002, so kids couldn't afford them.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205499
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Nup, it was actually on the quarter mile it blew up.

The motor was suffering massive amount of Det, and was shedding the electrodes from spark plugs. One may have come off and rattled around, but it looks as if the det blew out the side of the piston rings too. You'll see more once you remove the piston and rod.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7234469
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...