Jump to content
SAU Community

Audiophile Sub And Amp Setup Sydney Only

ima_slap_joO
 Share

Recommended Posts

ima_slap_joO Collaborator

ima_slap_joO

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys, thinking its about time to clear out some car audio gear I'm not really using much anymore, this stuff should go to a good home, its pretty rare to come up.

Now, I have two 15" MA Audio EHO154 quad coil 5000wrms subs and a Visonik v4000xd 4000wrms amp. Theres not much of this stuff in Aus, very difficult to find an amp like at all

here without spending many thousands of dollars.

This is a very reliable setup, I have previously owned soundstream xxx 15" subs and blew those several times, needing recones because the coils kept getting fried, these subs I have owned

and have had no issues whatsoever, no overheating or funny smells, they just perform (with the correct amp that is).

The amp is rated at 3500wrms @ 2ohm, and I had these subs wired at about 2.6 ohm I think and I have never reached clipping point, they just get louder and louder, contrary to what most people believe, the

response is very good for fast dance or techno style music, but they really come alive with heavy bass style tracks rnb or rap.

I currently have one only wired up in my r33 and its pretty amazing what comes out of just one sub, with two wired up it is absolutely insane. I can show any potential buyers what it can do with it all still wired up.

If anyone knows car audio gear (db junkies), you will know this stuff is special.

Looking for around $1200, can supply some 0 awg wire for the amp if need be.

0434284396

Bass....tester baby...uh.uh. :)

  • 15" Competition Series Subwoofer
  • Power Handling:
    • Peak: 10000 watts
    • RMS: 5000 watts

    [*]Dual layer pressed carbon fiber cone

    [*]High density foam surround

    [*]Double layer progressive spiders

    [*]Woven tinsel leads

    [*]Ultra strong carbon fiber dust cap

    [*]Bumped black plate for maximum excursion

    [*]Patented thermo-cooling motor

    [*]Hi-Temp kapton voice coil former

    [*]3" Black anodized aluminum coils

    [*]228oz. Magnet

    [*]1-year Manufacturer's warrantypost-75846-0-94404400-1357810749_thumb.jpgpost-75846-0-28243700-1357810860.jpg

  • Rms Power @ 14.4V DC: 1 x 2500W @ 4 Ohm, 1 x 3500W @ 2 Ohm
  • Rms Power @ 17V DC: 1 x 3000W @ 4 Ohm, 1 x 4000W @ 2 Ohm
  • Dimensions (H x W x L): 3.125" x 10.5" x 26"
  • 12 - 17V DC Power Input
  • 0.2 - 8V RCA Input Voltage
  • Frequency Response 10 Hz - 350 Hz
  • Short / Overload / Thermal Protection
  • Bridgeable with second Class X Amplifier
  • 24dB Variable Subsonic Filter
  • 24dB Variable Low Pass Filter
  • 0 - 18 dB Variable Bass Boost
  • Remote Gain Control module

Edited by ima_slap_joO
  • 2 months later...
ima_slap_joO Collaborator

ima_slap_joO

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Still not selling, have sold one sub, need the remaining sub and amp gone, ill take $400! This is really high quality gear, even if it is only for the amp only this is an excellent buy! 0434284396

post-75846-0-54379400-1363069292_thumb.jpg

post-75846-0-24885400-1363069423_thumb.jpg

Edited by ima_slap_joO
ima_slap_joO Collaborator

ima_slap_joO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

soo0o0o0oo 400 for one sub and one amp??

do you have a box for it by any chance??

Hey mate, i have a box that i jigged up for my R33, welcome to have it and some 0 gauge wire, and ill pre wire the sub as well. For 400 the amp is an absolute bargain, the sub is excellent also, on par with RExxx and soundstream xxx15.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...