Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Part:

RB26/30 long motor

Condition:

Built but never run :(

Description:

Typical story, got rid of project car due to purchase of house and the wife was pregnant with my first child...now the wife is pregnant with the second kid and I have a bathroom that desperately needs to be redone.

All up I remember spending around the $14,000 mark, so my loss is your gain.

More info:

- A8 block (bored, honed, decked)

- R32 GTR head

- HKS gaskets

- Head cleaned and serviced

- shot peened and linished conrods

- Crank/oil pump collar

- Crank balanced

- rotating assembly balanced, crank grub screwed and fitted with colar

- ACL forged pistons

- ACL bearings

- GTR Oil and water pumps

- HKS adjustable cam gears

- HKS cams, unknown model...didn't think to check before delivering to builder and he said he couldn't find a model number on them.

There are bits missing from the motor, including all the AAC gear, loom, valley and cam covers...This would be the perfect upgrade for someone that already has an RB26 that is looking for a bigger bottom end.

8.8:1 static compression (quite high for a 26/30) this was from my request during the build for better off boost driveability, I can't remember the exact combination that we used to get there, but it also included decking the block a little. Feel free to post questions, but remember it was a while ago now so my memory is a little vague

Location:

Blacktown, NSW

Contact Details:

[email protected]

PM on this site

I'll include my mobile number to serious people

Asking Price:

Looking for offers above $6,000...feel like I'm low balling myself

Or, feel free to offer something of interest...you never know

Pick-up/Postage Arrangements:

I'm willing to transport it inside the Sydney area...but you'll owe me a beer when I get there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417541-rb2630-long-motor/
Share on other sites

I'm not interested in separating, sorry.

No photos of the build, it was done by MRC Dyno Services (Castle Hill, NSW)

I've got 2 of the 3 receipts (lost the first one)

http://i225.photobuc...8may09page1.jpg

http://i225.photobuc...8may09page2.jpg

Images of the long motor

http://i225.photobuc...fsomecovers.jpg

http://i225.photobuc...ginebuilder.jpg

http://i225.photobuc...26inletside.jpg

It also comes with the throttle bodies, inlet plenum, half the loom (been hacked up, probably better thrown away)

EDIT: The harmonic balancer is from an R31 Skyline

Edited by NXGriffo

Anyone recovered from buyer's remorse after the Christmas Period? Maybe you'd like another round of spending...look no further, beef up that Skyline with a properly built 26/30, not just another slap together hybrid.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...