Jump to content
SAU Community

Thinking Of Putting An R34Gtr Box In An R33Gtr.. Good Idea?

Country Cruzin
 Share

Recommended Posts

Country Cruzin Collaborator

Country Cruzin

Posted
Posted

My car now has a stuffed clutch an think there has bn a stuffed synchro on fourth gear for a while so want to get them both fixed at the same time. but the car has done 150,000km an not sure if the gearbox would be worth fixing, or if i should look into putting an r34gtr box in, as they should be a lil newer and ive bn told they are a stronger box then the 33? not sure if thats true or not. currently running bout 460hp atw. But im not sure of the price of a 34 box as i havent seen any for sale, an how much itd cost to make it fit. any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. also are the diff ratio's much the same in a 34 compared to a 33?

wedge_r34gtr Mentor

wedge_r34gtr

Posted
Posted

r34 gtr diff ratio = 3.545

r33 gtr diff ratio = 4.11

The r34 boxes are much stronger than the earlier gtr boxes (it was mentioned to be me when i had mine rebuilt that they can take 800+hp without modifcation) and usually cost ~$3-5k 2nd hand or ~10k brand new. Like the 33 boxes, these are also starting to get a little old and can have syncho problems if they have had an abusive life.

I'm unsure what modifications are required to make it work with the 33. Nismo make a conversion kit for the 32, which might give you an idea of which parts need changing. However, i beleive the total cost will be alot more then getting a r33 box built with stronger internals.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

My car now has a stuffed clutch an think there has bn a stuffed synchro on fourth gear for a while so want to get them both fixed at the same time. but the car has done 150,000km an not sure if the gearbox would be worth fixing, or if i should look into putting an r34gtr box in, as they should be a lil newer and ive bn told they are a stronger box then the 33? not sure if thats true or not. currently running bout 460hp atw. But im not sure of the price of a 34 box as i havent seen any for sale, an how much itd cost to make it fit. any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. also are the diff ratio's much the same in a 34 compared to a 33?

I thought it was a good idea, I bought all the parts to do but ended up on selling it all. Changed my mind because:

- the Getrag is not as easily rebuilt compared to the simpler R32/R33

- the transfer cases are different from the more common R32/R33

- there are less aftermarket options for gearsets, etc should you need a stronger transmission

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

My car now has a stuffed clutch an think there has bn a stuffed synchro on fourth gear for a while so want to get them both fixed at the same time. but the car has done 150,000km an not sure if the gearbox would be worth fixing, or if i should look into putting an r34gtr box in, as they should be a lil newer and ive bn told they are a stronger box then the 33? not sure if thats true or not. currently running bout 460hp atw. But im not sure of the price of a 34 box as i havent seen any for sale, an how much itd cost to make it fit. any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. also are the diff ratio's much the same in a 34 compared to a 33?

460rwhp is a walk in the park for a R33 gearbox in good condition and properly driven/used.

A R34 GETRAG conversion will cost you at a minimum $7,000

2x Diffs - $1000

1x Gearbox - $3500-$5000

Labour (front diff is basically motor out) / oil / misc parts - $1200-$2,000

You can keep your factory diff ratio but that does alter the speedo massively and 1st/2nd also becomes quite short as a result, so for a daily it can be a pain.

Nee-san Grand Master

Nee-san

Posted
Posted

So what's the option for the guys in the 500+ HP bracket who don't want to spend stupid amount of money on a gearbox ?

I'm in the same boat,

Gearbox needs a rebuild,

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

So what's the option for the guys in the 500+ HP bracket who don't want to spend stupid amount of money on a gearbox ?

I'm in the same boat,

Gearbox needs a rebuild,

OS Gear set. You're going to be putting new synchro's, bearings and stuff in it anyway. I got my 5 speed set with the big input shaft delivered for $2,760. You'd also be stupid not to put the billet centre plate which is another $900 or so.

It really isn't that bad especially if you take but the money you're already going to spend refreshing the box anyway.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

So what's the option for the guys in the 500+ HP bracket who don't want to spend stupid amount of money on a gearbox ?

I'm in the same boat,

Gearbox needs a rebuild,

Mine held fine @ 550-600HP, 8200rpm launches constantly for 18 months.

Might be worth the gamble just to get a 2nd hand one given they are about $800. Gearboxes failing is also dependant on the clutch. The Nismo Coppermix is very forgiving for a gearbox due to its construction and the clamp/pressure etc. Where say a nastier OS clutch isn't and will stress components a lot more.

You tend not to hear many people busting boxes that use Coppermix clutches as a result which is something a lot of people don't take into account

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

It's not really 1st that breaks though Ash. It's almost always 3rd that gives up.

One thing I'd like to see is a standard box but with the billet plate put in. It might be the solution to the issue without mega expense (especially if you're getting it freshened up anyway).

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Indeed it's usually 3rd that does get stripped, it is a smaller gear etc so it makes sense.

Still clutches I think do play a solid part. I know someone that busted a OS box & a stock (without a Nismo), and then went back to a stock box with a Nismo and it was fine.

One example is far from truth but overall rarely hear a Nismo copper owner busting a box.

Nee-san Grand Master

Nee-san

Posted
Posted

Where did you get the OS gear from Paul ? I may just get a second hand box and drop it in until such time as I break it. Then rebuild with the OS gear.

Going to get my OS twin rebuilt at NPC.

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Greenline mate. Paid straight into their account and ot arrived 4 or 5 days later. Don't forget the centre plate either!!!! Gav from WA has smashed two OS sets and countless standard boxes. Funny enough, no centre plate and a JB clutch. He spoke to OS in Japan mad the first question they asked was if he had the standard plate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...