Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car now has a stuffed clutch an think there has bn a stuffed synchro on fourth gear for a while so want to get them both fixed at the same time. but the car has done 150,000km an not sure if the gearbox would be worth fixing, or if i should look into putting an r34gtr box in, as they should be a lil newer and ive bn told they are a stronger box then the 33? not sure if thats true or not. currently running bout 460hp atw. But im not sure of the price of a 34 box as i havent seen any for sale, an how much itd cost to make it fit. any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. also are the diff ratio's much the same in a 34 compared to a 33?

r34 gtr diff ratio = 3.545

r33 gtr diff ratio = 4.11

The r34 boxes are much stronger than the earlier gtr boxes (it was mentioned to be me when i had mine rebuilt that they can take 800+hp without modifcation) and usually cost ~$3-5k 2nd hand or ~10k brand new. Like the 33 boxes, these are also starting to get a little old and can have syncho problems if they have had an abusive life.

I'm unsure what modifications are required to make it work with the 33. Nismo make a conversion kit for the 32, which might give you an idea of which parts need changing. However, i beleive the total cost will be alot more then getting a r33 box built with stronger internals.

My car now has a stuffed clutch an think there has bn a stuffed synchro on fourth gear for a while so want to get them both fixed at the same time. but the car has done 150,000km an not sure if the gearbox would be worth fixing, or if i should look into putting an r34gtr box in, as they should be a lil newer and ive bn told they are a stronger box then the 33? not sure if thats true or not. currently running bout 460hp atw. But im not sure of the price of a 34 box as i havent seen any for sale, an how much itd cost to make it fit. any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. also are the diff ratio's much the same in a 34 compared to a 33?

I thought it was a good idea, I bought all the parts to do but ended up on selling it all. Changed my mind because:

- the Getrag is not as easily rebuilt compared to the simpler R32/R33

- the transfer cases are different from the more common R32/R33

- there are less aftermarket options for gearsets, etc should you need a stronger transmission

My car now has a stuffed clutch an think there has bn a stuffed synchro on fourth gear for a while so want to get them both fixed at the same time. but the car has done 150,000km an not sure if the gearbox would be worth fixing, or if i should look into putting an r34gtr box in, as they should be a lil newer and ive bn told they are a stronger box then the 33? not sure if thats true or not. currently running bout 460hp atw. But im not sure of the price of a 34 box as i havent seen any for sale, an how much itd cost to make it fit. any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. also are the diff ratio's much the same in a 34 compared to a 33?

460rwhp is a walk in the park for a R33 gearbox in good condition and properly driven/used.

A R34 GETRAG conversion will cost you at a minimum $7,000

2x Diffs - $1000

1x Gearbox - $3500-$5000

Labour (front diff is basically motor out) / oil / misc parts - $1200-$2,000

You can keep your factory diff ratio but that does alter the speedo massively and 1st/2nd also becomes quite short as a result, so for a daily it can be a pain.

So what's the option for the guys in the 500+ HP bracket who don't want to spend stupid amount of money on a gearbox ?

I'm in the same boat,

Gearbox needs a rebuild,

So what's the option for the guys in the 500+ HP bracket who don't want to spend stupid amount of money on a gearbox ?

I'm in the same boat,

Gearbox needs a rebuild,

OS Gear set. You're going to be putting new synchro's, bearings and stuff in it anyway. I got my 5 speed set with the big input shaft delivered for $2,760. You'd also be stupid not to put the billet centre plate which is another $900 or so.

It really isn't that bad especially if you take but the money you're already going to spend refreshing the box anyway.

So what's the option for the guys in the 500+ HP bracket who don't want to spend stupid amount of money on a gearbox ?

I'm in the same boat,

Gearbox needs a rebuild,

Mine held fine @ 550-600HP, 8200rpm launches constantly for 18 months.

Might be worth the gamble just to get a 2nd hand one given they are about $800. Gearboxes failing is also dependant on the clutch. The Nismo Coppermix is very forgiving for a gearbox due to its construction and the clamp/pressure etc. Where say a nastier OS clutch isn't and will stress components a lot more.

You tend not to hear many people busting boxes that use Coppermix clutches as a result which is something a lot of people don't take into account

It's not really 1st that breaks though Ash. It's almost always 3rd that gives up.

One thing I'd like to see is a standard box but with the billet plate put in. It might be the solution to the issue without mega expense (especially if you're getting it freshened up anyway).

Indeed it's usually 3rd that does get stripped, it is a smaller gear etc so it makes sense.

Still clutches I think do play a solid part. I know someone that busted a OS box & a stock (without a Nismo), and then went back to a stock box with a Nismo and it was fine.

One example is far from truth but overall rarely hear a Nismo copper owner busting a box.

Where did you get the OS gear from Paul ? I may just get a second hand box and drop it in until such time as I break it. Then rebuild with the OS gear.

Going to get my OS twin rebuilt at NPC.

Greenline mate. Paid straight into their account and ot arrived 4 or 5 days later. Don't forget the centre plate either!!!! Gav from WA has smashed two OS sets and countless standard boxes. Funny enough, no centre plate and a JB clutch. He spoke to OS in Japan mad the first question they asked was if he had the standard plate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...