Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AT the skidpan yesterday, one of the instructors is schmoozing with someone and has hired out the willowbank dirt track next tuesday the 1st. He was after 3-4 people who want to cover some of the cost with him. I said yes and rang a mate, who, then said yes, but has pulled out today because of work. I put a deposit down for two people, and now I am only one. Can someone else take that spot?

the details are.....

* Willowbank dirt track. A soft dirt track that they wet down before use so it will

not be that hard on your tyres.

* 1.4 km long (with lovely grassy run off areas)

* the instructor is basically tuning a car so he will be ten minutes on, ten

minutes off leaving two people 500m apart to play

* 10am to 1pm Tuesday the 1st of June

* $100

And the other thing is, I was wondering where I could pick up some regular stocko tyres like 15's or something, as I only have 18's and I might need some more flex in the tyres for this type of thing rather than low profile etc....

Hope someone can help me out, cheers, Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41775-anyone-wanna-play-in-the-dirt/
Share on other sites

I don't think there's any restrictions on that at all. Rear wheel or front wheel.

Drunken idiot. Too many lagers infront of the origin. :D

RWC. Yeah you probably have to have one. But I'm not sure who will check or scrutineer cause the guy has hired it out for private use.

We've taken both our cars on the autocross track a few times. It is excellent fun to say the least (look at my avatar). You are sideways for the whole track except for the main straight away and on the straight away before the last turn. Fullesik scandanavian flikidge and intertia drift etc... etc...

But it is dirt, which after a while depending on the weather becomes very large rocks poking out of the ground.

A water truck goes around every 30 mins or so to harden the track. After that goes around it is very very slippery and up under your guards becomes compacted with thick mud, so thick that it rubs on your wheels.

But after a couple of hours the track really starts to dry out and flatten down hard, and your tyres really start to rip and the track turns black with tyre marks.

Its great fun, but not for nice skylines. Certainly not rare skylines like ours :D

WHOLY SHIT!!!

$100!!! are you serious!!!

It costs for 4 hours use of the track $35. Thats the first sunday of every month at 10am.

And we've balded a set of tyres in 4 hours. (they were already at 50%)

4 hours meaning about 5-6 10 minute sessions. Thats on a non turbo 31, i'd hate to imagine what would happen with more powerful turbo cars like yours

Wow,

you guys are sowing hella seeds of doubt in my mind about this.

The guy said it wouldn't be too bad on the car, bar the 18"s etc.

I realise that a skyline is not a wrx but thats what he's taking out.

I think there is another liner that said yes on the day. Is that person on here?

The liner in the pic I thought.

Oh it'll be bad. Particularly on Skylines that are low, powerful, on 18"s and designed for tarmac.

The grass run off areas have tyres sticking out of the ground. They only sitck out a few inches ... but still. I got it a bit crossed up coming out of a corner once and ran over a couple of them and they left nasty big black mark across my front bar. Now if my car was as low as most R33s are, i woulnd't have made it around the track without ripping my front spoiler off due the the massive rocks on turn 3.

I don't mean to stop you from going, just be warned about the track.

Well I went...........

and had a phcukin ball. Great fun. No troubles whatsoever. The 18's were fine. A little bit of rubber taken off but nothing to worry about. Certainly not bald or anything. Was a helluva day out and would do it again definetly. Ill see if i can get some pics up.

*****. of course i am. We drive rare skylines ... nice ones at that. To see them go from shiny has heaven it self and mechanically tight as a fish coit to dirty as a donkey raper. Not to mention the diff developing BAD backlash and making strange noises and brakes heating to the point of BAD fade.

The cars you usually see there are rally cars or bodgy paddock bashers.

HOWEVER

the track varies ... sounds like you did well.

Though only when i go out there are 10-15 other cars using the track (not at once of course) so the track will get cut up a bit.

Be interested to see some pics too. Did you use the long track or the sort track?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...