Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AT the skidpan yesterday, one of the instructors is schmoozing with someone and has hired out the willowbank dirt track next tuesday the 1st. He was after 3-4 people who want to cover some of the cost with him. I said yes and rang a mate, who, then said yes, but has pulled out today because of work. I put a deposit down for two people, and now I am only one. Can someone else take that spot?

the details are.....

* Willowbank dirt track. A soft dirt track that they wet down before use so it will

not be that hard on your tyres.

* 1.4 km long (with lovely grassy run off areas)

* the instructor is basically tuning a car so he will be ten minutes on, ten

minutes off leaving two people 500m apart to play

* 10am to 1pm Tuesday the 1st of June

* $100

And the other thing is, I was wondering where I could pick up some regular stocko tyres like 15's or something, as I only have 18's and I might need some more flex in the tyres for this type of thing rather than low profile etc....

Hope someone can help me out, cheers, Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41775-anyone-wanna-play-in-the-dirt/
Share on other sites

I don't think there's any restrictions on that at all. Rear wheel or front wheel.

Drunken idiot. Too many lagers infront of the origin. :D

RWC. Yeah you probably have to have one. But I'm not sure who will check or scrutineer cause the guy has hired it out for private use.

We've taken both our cars on the autocross track a few times. It is excellent fun to say the least (look at my avatar). You are sideways for the whole track except for the main straight away and on the straight away before the last turn. Fullesik scandanavian flikidge and intertia drift etc... etc...

But it is dirt, which after a while depending on the weather becomes very large rocks poking out of the ground.

A water truck goes around every 30 mins or so to harden the track. After that goes around it is very very slippery and up under your guards becomes compacted with thick mud, so thick that it rubs on your wheels.

But after a couple of hours the track really starts to dry out and flatten down hard, and your tyres really start to rip and the track turns black with tyre marks.

Its great fun, but not for nice skylines. Certainly not rare skylines like ours :D

WHOLY SHIT!!!

$100!!! are you serious!!!

It costs for 4 hours use of the track $35. Thats the first sunday of every month at 10am.

And we've balded a set of tyres in 4 hours. (they were already at 50%)

4 hours meaning about 5-6 10 minute sessions. Thats on a non turbo 31, i'd hate to imagine what would happen with more powerful turbo cars like yours

Wow,

you guys are sowing hella seeds of doubt in my mind about this.

The guy said it wouldn't be too bad on the car, bar the 18"s etc.

I realise that a skyline is not a wrx but thats what he's taking out.

I think there is another liner that said yes on the day. Is that person on here?

The liner in the pic I thought.

Oh it'll be bad. Particularly on Skylines that are low, powerful, on 18"s and designed for tarmac.

The grass run off areas have tyres sticking out of the ground. They only sitck out a few inches ... but still. I got it a bit crossed up coming out of a corner once and ran over a couple of them and they left nasty big black mark across my front bar. Now if my car was as low as most R33s are, i woulnd't have made it around the track without ripping my front spoiler off due the the massive rocks on turn 3.

I don't mean to stop you from going, just be warned about the track.

Well I went...........

and had a phcukin ball. Great fun. No troubles whatsoever. The 18's were fine. A little bit of rubber taken off but nothing to worry about. Certainly not bald or anything. Was a helluva day out and would do it again definetly. Ill see if i can get some pics up.

*****. of course i am. We drive rare skylines ... nice ones at that. To see them go from shiny has heaven it self and mechanically tight as a fish coit to dirty as a donkey raper. Not to mention the diff developing BAD backlash and making strange noises and brakes heating to the point of BAD fade.

The cars you usually see there are rally cars or bodgy paddock bashers.

HOWEVER

the track varies ... sounds like you did well.

Though only when i go out there are 10-15 other cars using the track (not at once of course) so the track will get cut up a bit.

Be interested to see some pics too. Did you use the long track or the sort track?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...