Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i read that as you can replace shocks OR springs with suitable replacements without an engineering cert, but not with coilovers (not mentioned).

plus i seem to remember something re: adjustable = no no... will try and find

http://autocollective.com.au/nsw-rta/

A vehicle may not be lowered by more than 5cm from standard. Cars fitted with non adjustable suspension which have had adjustable / air suspension replaced in lieu, must be engineered.
  • 4 years later...

This may help on page 19  

http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/documents/roads/registration/get-nsw-registration/light-vehicle-modifications-manual-suspension-and-ride-height.pdf

6.0 Waystomodifyrideheight

6.1 Standard suspension modifications

Suspension modifications must comply with the component manufacturer’s specifications, or, if these are not available or assessed as being inadequate, VSB 14 Section LS Tyres, Rims, Suspension and Steering.

6.2 Variable suspension modifications

Variable suspension systems must comply with Section LS 1.2, 2.7 and applicable codes of VSB14 as qualified by Appendix B of this Manual.

The suspension system must be a catalogued and quality controlled product complete with full fitting and operating instructions, and be designed and manufactured by a recognised business with experience in supplying reputable suspension systems.

6.3 Changes to wheels and tyres

All tyres fitted to the vehicle must be appropriate to the wheel rim as specified in the Tyre and Rim Standards Manual or in any applicable second edition ADR or third edition ADR. Guidance on modifications to the vehicle’s wheels and tyres, or a combination of the wheels and tyres, is given in VSI 9 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...