Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Too low, too loud and worn tyres up the inside of the rears.

They had a special stick to measure ride height, and used an iphone to measure db at 3000 rpm. Tyres failed a visual inspection and they also noticed the diff had leaked some fluid around the drainage plug. Whoopee doop.

The problem is that on top of the minor faults noted (and the $325 fine) I need to produce a roadworthy certificate within a month. This will require a mountain of standard parts (in roadworthy condition) that I haven't owned nor even seen at wreckers, for years.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418734-d-d-d-defected/#findComment-6726173
Share on other sites

I'm in a terrible quandary actually.

I have no real idea which things will/won't pass RWC without engineering. Similarly, I have no idea what an engineer will pass/fail, or how much they will want for their time.

There are a bunch of smallish jobs (the list really adds up quickly though) that I definitely need for RWC, and that's before I start attending to the many backyard modifications like carbys, exhaust, suspension, wheels, brakes, etc.

Ill hit a mechanic and find out what exactly they'll want changed/engineered, but I don't see a RWC happening in the 28 day time limit for anything less than a staggering sum of money.

Probably my realistic options are beg a scrutiniser for club plates and buy a daily, find a seriously crooked mechanic who'll do a dodgy RWC, or sell/part out.

I can temporarily swap some parts from another project for the purposes of the RWC, but run the risk of getting defected again when I change back to modified.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418734-d-d-d-defected/#findComment-6726848
Share on other sites

Measuring the sound at 3k rpm is a load of shit, as the rpm they test for differs depending on year and make.

But hey,

They make it up as they go, cant do much about it.

Find a DECENT car club, get some plates,

enjoy cheap rego and heavily reduced insurance costs.

Or ask Super Dragger if you can rego it in his name in NSW haha.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418734-d-d-d-defected/#findComment-6726937
Share on other sites

Lol! I am actually a NSW boy originally - maybe I need to head home for a bit!

Adz do I need a RWC even for club reg? I thought the club scrutiniser got the final say on whether a car was eligible for club rego.

Although Im not bothered about putting the car on club reg, shelling out for a daily driver is a bit of a pain. I need to be able to get to work quickly at all kinds of odd hours, and have limited parking around home.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418734-d-d-d-defected/#findComment-6727060
Share on other sites

First up I am going to hit a mechanic and find out exactly what needs doing for a RWC.

Then Ill run the numbers and decide if it's worth it. I've still got full rego till 11 2013!

Also, I need to meet a club scrutiniser and find out how far the car is off club rego.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418734-d-d-d-defected/#findComment-6727993
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

In a strange twist, I called Vic Roads and asked them about my car.

They said that the officer who issued the defect to me, has not contacted Vic Roads to list the car as defected. As far as they were concerned they have nothing at all on file to say my car is currently defective, and as such they have no plans to cancel my registration at the end of the 28 day notice period.

So, if I were to turn up at Vic Roads tomorrow with a RWC, their response would be 'huh, what's this for?'

The guy at Vic Roads recommended to obey the conditions of the defect notice and turn up with the defect notice, RWC and car, so they can check that all the work required on the notice as been completed. I argued that according to the Vic Roads website I only need to bring the car in if there is a defect notice on the windscreen, (there is a odd loophole that if you replace the windscreen for RWC they don't need to see the car.) However the Vic Roads guy was not convinced.

I'd be interested to see what would happen if neither the officer or I ever supply details of the defect to Vic Roads. I have a strong suspicion that the car would simply remain registered. :devil:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418734-d-d-d-defected/#findComment-6744683
Share on other sites

that sucks man,

what i have done in the past, was change the licence plate. i had a full list of defects, did the same as you rang up and they had no idea about them, so i just changed my plates and yea sweet. ended up but got pulled over again about a month or two later and defected again, that time it stuck.

but it worked for me at the time

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418734-d-d-d-defected/#findComment-6745740
Share on other sites

that sucks man,

what i have done in the past, was change the licence plate. i had a full list of defects, did the same as you rang up and they had no idea about them, so i just changed my plates and yea sweet. ended up but got pulled over again about a month or two later and defected again, that time it stuck.

but it worked for me at the time

Actually, I didn't quite read your post right.

So to get this straight, you got defected, Vic Roads/RTA didn't know of any such defection, so you declared your plates lost/stolen etc and got plates with new letters and numbers. When the police pulled you up again you weren't in defected Skyline ABC-123 you were in not defected Skyline XYZ-789. It worked because the police defect only lists registration number, not VIN or engine number.

That's genius: if I try it on, Ill definitely be cleaning up my car some anyway. I'd hate to get redefected again. It sucks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418734-d-d-d-defected/#findComment-6746450
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...