Jump to content
SAU Community

Chassis Restoration Questions

albertm7

By albertm7,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

albertm7 Apprentice

albertm7

Posted
Posted

Hello guys, I have a couple of questions for my BCNR33 that may or may not be stupid.

1. I want my car to be COMPLETELY rust free. Do you guys prefer acid dipping or media blasting (I read that acid dipping will get into places where I can't get paint back on again).

2. Whether I decide to dip or blast, I'm going to have to completely strip my car. Do the rear quarter panels come off to reveal the chassis or is it part of it? The reason I ask is I realized after I bought the car that it looks like it had been in an accident and the right rear quarter panel all the way to the rear taillights have had some major bondo work done. I was planning to just take off the panels and just replace them but all the pictures that I've seen online where people have their cars stripped have the rear quarter panels still on them (ex. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/156289-r33-gtr-road-legal-track-car-5.html, :worship: this is exactly the type of work that I want to do to my car).... It would piss me off to no end if I knew there was bondo still on the car....

3. If I strip the car and realized the chassis is damaged, is it worth it to try and repair it? With enough expertise and $$$, would it practically be new or will it always be a "damaged chassis that was repaired" type of deal. I know it depends on the severity of the damage, but I don't think there is anything significant as I have been driving the car for 2 years now and have not noticed anything (although I don't really have a baseline to compare to as I have never driven another BCNR33). I'm just the type that has to know that EVERYTHING has been restored or it'll bug me.

4. Any metal that is not welded onto the chassis does not contribute to chassis rigidity, correct?

As you guys can probably tell, I'm a pretty big noob when it comes to cars, but I have big aspirations. I want to do things correctly from the ground up and before I touch the engine or suspension, I want to know that the chassis is in good condition first.

Thanks from Canada, Albert

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418794-chassis-restoration-questions/
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

Can't answer all of those, but yes, things bolted to the chassis do increase rigidity. They aren't the old style rail chassis like old hot rods. So things like the windscreen are crucial parts of the chassis strength as the body is part of the chassis.

As for the rear quarters, yes they are welded on. They can be cut of and replaced, but it's expensive and results will depend on the panel shop.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      They are, a good friend of mine bought one to replace his blow factory turbo, running a Toshi Tune reflash. Just use their supplied water/oil lines and you're good to go. At the time, they were like $900 delivered.
    • Murray_Calavera
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      This is an option for 100% bolt on, the GCG high flow -  https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html Also, I'm pretty sure hypergear does a high flow that is 100% bolt on, it just doesn't make as much power as their bigger high flows.  Even if you get a hypergear turbo that requires you to chance the intake piping, it is a really simple modification. It can be as simple as a piece of silicon hose and you pop a filter on the end. It doesn't have to be some crazy pie cut titanium work of art intake pipe.  If you have the ability to swap the turbo yourself, you would be able to sort the intake piping out. 
    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • GTSBoy
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
×
×
  • Create New...