Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh man already got an exhaust happing thanks anyways! Any other ideas?

Read the RB25 results thread and also the modifying thread to get a feel for upgrading your car....

The first stage is pretty limited with your injectors, but an ECU and Cooler etc will allow you to raise the boost a rad, thats about all you should need to do for the initial mod :) (Ecu not essential but factory ECU doesnt like boost increase in a lot of cases)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418880-r34-gtt/#findComment-6729517
Share on other sites

rb 20 actuator. for 10psi goodness.

better dump and front pipe. high flow cat.

front mount cooler. all can be had for a total of 500 bucks if you look hard enough.

now with an auto, you will need a stage two shift kit and an oil cooler for the transmission. thats gonna be 650 upwards for all that paid for and fitted.

then its fuel pump, injectors. 300+ bucks

ecu, safc 2 is your cheapest bet. 200 upwards.

then turbo. cheapest is highflowing yours. 880 bucks.

tune on a dyno to set it up. god knows. but all that should see about 220+kw at your wheels. with the auto.

(just going off the same pattern as mine but mine is an r33)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418880-r34-gtt/#findComment-6729532
Share on other sites

HEAPS of good tuners for ECU upgrade, but you need the ECU and a tune, they are not plug in as such.... I have had good dealings with JEM and also DVS JEZ but there are other good names floating around the forums like UNIGROUP and a heap of others, shop around and choose the one you are happy with!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418880-r34-gtt/#findComment-6730000
Share on other sites

Yeh sweet well ima get a fmic first and then ill go after the ecu and a tune. And then go from there! :) keen as!!!

make sure you get advice about a suitable ecu.

you need a piggy back not a full replcement on a 33 auto. not aure about 34.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418880-r34-gtt/#findComment-6730095
Share on other sites

Yeh i just need to look around ive read a couple threads just need to find one that is compatiable with a 34 auto :)

i think you have a seperate ecu for your box that cuts timing when it changes gear. so you should be cool. but double check that.

if you dont the best you can get is a greddy emanage ultimate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418880-r34-gtt/#findComment-6731528
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...