Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I'm after some help. Im trying to check the timing on my rb20det. Am I right in saying that number 1 cylinder is the first cylinder after the inlet and exhaust cams.

I hooked my timing light up to the black loop wire at the back of the motor and my harmonic balancer degree was about 35 degree.

I want to hook it up to number one plu to check that the other reading could have been possibly doubled.

Also I have a autronic Eccu and a auto trans. What should the timing be set up to?

Can anyone help me out?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419143-rb20det-timing/
Share on other sites

number 1 cylinder is the front cyclinder.

the wire loop sometimes gives false readings. the most reliable way to test the timing is to get an old fashioned ignition lead and remove the coil pack from number 1 and put the ignition lead between the coil and the spark plug and hook the timing light up to that.

timing wise, i think the auto is supposed to be slightly different to the manual by a degree or 2 (it's been a long time since i looked it up). the manual is supposed to be about 15 degrees BTDC. if you are getting 35 degrees then i'm guessing that it's obviously no where near the timing marks on the crank pulley?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419143-rb20det-timing/#findComment-6734401
Share on other sites

Ok, didn't realise the timing marks went to 30 degrees on those.

As for introducing the lead, you just pull the coil pack out (leaving it plugged into the wiring harness), get an old ignition lead and plug it into the part of the coil that goes over the top of the spark plug, and the other end onto the spark plug. Then clip the timing light onto the lead and test the timing as normal.

Also search to find out the correct procedure for putting the car into timing mode. for example, with a r33 you warm the car up, turn it off, unplug the tps and then start the car again. This is supposed to lock the timing at 15 degrees (it will normally fluctuate a small amount). Also make sure the car is warm when checking the timing, even if not locking into timing mode.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419143-rb20det-timing/#findComment-6734524
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...