Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If your car is not making huge power and your have pads that have over 50% pad left you should be ok for your first time. Just make sure you keep an eye on your pads as they can wear down very quickly at Mallala. QFM A1RM's were good for 1.20's in my car, they work great.

As everyone says, keep an eye on your pads, if they're low then source something spares locally. Running old stock stuff ya probably won't put that much load on the car anyway, which OS good, just don't be suprised if your pedal goes to the floor

In the medium term I wouldn't get too precious about your rotors, you'll soon be throwing them in the bin. I still run sporty street crap and they crack after a few good session. Works out economical for me to replace every 4 track days when the pads are low, they're cheaper than pads! As for pads, I've been using pmu club racers and love them. (if ya run out of pads I've usually carry old spares anyway)

Motul fluid seems to be a popular choice, been using the 660, but running 600 now as it's easier to source when ya need it.

Ps: garages used to be $30 payable to the dude on the pushbike.

I expect I will learn about alot of shortcomings in my brakes, suspension, tyres ..... well the whole car really !

Being my first time out I wont be laying down very good times, therefore not really fussed about what I am using this saturday in the way of pads, fluids etc.

Pretty keen to just get out there and have some fun, I will worry about improvements for the 23rd of March.

Well I was about to put the car on the trailer late last night and discovered I got a bad fuel leak . Upon investigation it seems a fuel line split which would have meant hours lost getting and fitting another. At $100 + $35 for garage for maybe only half a days track work I decided to sit this one out.

23rd of march is the next goal , gives me time to get brakes machined , new a1rm pads and fluid.

Maybe even treat myself to some coil overs .

Hope you lads have fun .... Sad panda

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...