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Sold the following:

rear bar

boot lid

left foggy

left headlight

boot trim

raidus rods

front lower control arms

SARD FPR

centre console

Heaps of performance bits still available as well as Complete RB25

WOLF V500 Direct plug in ECU for RB25DET R33 - $500, take it away! The current model of this ECU retails at $1,995.80 incl GST:

http://wolfmotorspor...3-gtst-plug-in/

This ECU is a direct plug in ecu which plugs into factory harness - no chopping harnesses or piggy backing harnesses, very clean installation capable of producing great results.

Inludes laptop plug - great condition, like new, also ran great when installed in the car - removed from parted vehicle which was not smashed or damaged at all

Spec attached in pdf. file attached below.

Wolf_V500_Specification_Sheet1.pdf

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hey, how you going with that fuel pump and surge kit, is it still available?

Hey

In tank pump still available, surge kit setup is sold.

Cheers

Many parts still available complete clean R33 series 1 interior and body panels will create list soon

Hey

In tank pump still available, surge kit setup is sold.

Cheers

Many parts still available complete clean R33 series 1 interior and body panels will create list soon

Did you find out what kind of pump it is? Also how much?

Still available below! prices very negotiable!

HKS Super Drager CAT back was $500 now $300

Clutch Kit $200

Series 2 front Bar - slight dent on front and pre cut for cooler $150

Series 2 headlight right good condition $300

Series 2 reo $100

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Blitz 850cc Injectors in stock rail - $450


16 inch R32 GTST wheels and tyres 90% tread $450

Series 2 Bonnet - straight as - perfect - $400

17x7 inch wheels and tyres 80% tread $300

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Front callipers $270 $100

Rear 5 stud hubs $120

Manual LSD 4:11 tight $200

Driveshafts $180

Stock suspension $150 $80

Front rotors $50

Front 5 stud hubs $50

Rear lower control arms $50


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Side skirts custom $120 $80

Front windscreen $100

Rear windscreen $80

Front guard left $60

Front guard right $60

Door Rubbers full set $70

Rear wing series 2 style but a little taller aftermarket? $50

Quarter windows $50

Front door windows $50

Mirrors $40

Tail light left $40

Tail light right $40

Rear garnish $40

GTST Badges $40

Left Door $30

Right Door $30

Wipers and motors $30


Misc Manual Conversion bits $200

Air con compressor $120

OEM Coilpacks $100

S1 engine loom $100

Cross member $80

Power steer rack $80

Radiator $80

Engine mounts $70

Alternator $70

Power Steer bottle and hoses $40

Radiator overflow bottle $20

Fuse box lid $20

RB25 Exhaust manifold $50

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Dash cluster 150xxxkms - worked perfect $120

Drivers side window motor $100

Jap steering boss kit and AUTOTECHNICA wheel $100

Instrument cluster with vents $80

Seatbelts $80

Ignition barrell and locks $80

Drivers side window switch $60

S1 Door trims and quarter trims - slight marks $50

Passeneger side window motor $50

Series 1 Front seats $50

Steering column surround $50

Gear selector surround and boot $40

Center console $40

Climate control unit $30

Rear seat $30

Rear parcel shelf/child restraints/factory speaker grill $30

Indicator switch $20

Wiper switch $20

Hey wondering if you've still got any parts left? I'm needing a Rear Windscreen for my R33, any luck that you've still got that lying about?

Yeah mate still have it you have pm

Still available below! prices negotiable!

HKS Super Drager including high flow CAT back now $250

Series 2 front Bar - slight dent on front and pre cut for cooler $150

Series 2 headlight right good condition $300

Series 2 reo $100

post-30339-0-80235100-1360219532_thumb.j

Blitz 850cc Injectors in stock rail - $450

16 inch R32 GTST wheels and tyres 90% tread $350


Rear 5 stud hubs $120

Manual LSD 4:11 tight $180

Driveshafts $180

Stock suspension $80

Front 5 stud hubs $50

Rear lower control arms $50


post-30339-0-76123500-1360219563_thumb.j




post-30339-0-67879800-1360219593_thumb.j




post-30339-0-51298400-1360219629_thumb.j


Side skirts custom $80

Front windscreen $100

Rear windscreen $80

Front guard left $60

Front guard right $60

Door Rubbers full set $70

Rear wing series 2 style but a little taller aftermarket? $50

Quarter windows $50

Front door windows $50

Mirrors $40 each

Tail light left $40

Tail light right $40

Rear garnish $40

GTST Badges $40

Left Door $30

Right Door $30

Wipers and motors $30 (front motor sold)

Air con compressor $120

OEM Coilpacks $100

S1 engine loom $100

Cross member $80

Power steer rack $80

Radiator $80

Engine mounts $70

Alternator $70

Power Steer bottle and hoses $40

Radiator overflow bottle $20

Fuse box lid $20

RB25 Exhaust manifold $50

post-30339-0-70982000-1360219662_thumb.j




Dash cluster 150xxxkms - worked perfect $120

Drivers side window motor $100

Jap steering boss kit and AUTOTECHNICA wheel $100

Seatbelts $80

Ignition barrell and all locks matching key $80

S1 Door trims and quarter trims - slight marks $50

Passenger side window motor $50

Center console $40

Climate control unit $30

Rear parcel shelf/child restraints/factory speaker grill $30

Indicator switch $20

Wiper switch $20


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  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
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