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Yeah but proven to bring boost on 500rpm in most applications I've even read somewhere boost come on nearly 1000rpm earlier. A mates mate had one for his 33 and he'd never seen a manifold that clean inside, the welds get ground smooth and polished almost, quality stuff really, and I guess the saying you get what you pay for shines here

yes very true ill look in to it a bit more i mean you want the best you really have to pay for the best i guess

on another note anyone seen one of these before come in a box of stuff with the car

post-93126-0-73575300-1361267524_thumb.jpg

post-93126-0-21455300-1361267603_thumb.jpg

good day today went up to mates to cut the section of engine bay i need to repair my laurels rusted bit out of his shell and found that his shell still has the clutch and break pedals and a manual dash cluster :) so good saved myself few $100

are yeah shit i was looking at that forgot about you umm i did see the fuse box i know there is a hole engine loom there but i cut it in half when i took the half of the car off but the rest is there i think message him and ask he would know whats there but there is defs a fuse box still mounted in side the car

well yesterday i sold the r32 thank god so now the manual gearbox will come and getting closer to doing the conversion spent today putting on the new steering rack boots and taking the aircon pump out (as it was left in there with just the pump and nothing else) still waiting on the manifold and other gaskets to come then put all that back on cant wait to drive it again even if it is auto

alright so im almost there with all my conversion parts ive got a question ive searched and havent been able to find the answer...

As im putting the 25 box on to the 25 motor what sort of sandwitch plate will i need to bolt up or should it bolt straight to the bell housing ???

Speedo is easy get a d22 navara speedo sender, get navara cog off (die grinder with cut off blade) drill r33 gearbox cog out to suit navara Speedo sender shafts size. Slide r33 cog onto navara speedo sensor shaft and use some lock tite glue on it to be safe. Put navara speedo sensor in box ad make a new sensor bracket to hold it in

yeah ive read a few things now about doing it hope it is easy just hit the other issue few mins ago got new steering rack ends and thinking they would be the same as s13 buuuuutttt no to small do you know what sorta steering racks they have?

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
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