Jump to content
SAU Community

After 6 Months Storage, Car Won't Rev Passed 2K

nakuma

By nakuma,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

nakuma Enthusiast

nakuma

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

After leaving the skyline in storage for about half a year I have been trying to get it running happily again but I've run into a few issues.

When started, the car idles fine. When the throttle is increased it won't climb any higher than 2k and then a loud popping sound is heard coming from the pod filter, like the car is back firing. The popping occurs roughly every 5 seconds and is quite loud.

When the throttle is blipped it will rev freely all the way to redline but it will only rev to 2k when the throttle is opening incrementally.

I changed the fuel, fuel filter, spark plugs thinking it was air/fuel related but the issue remains.

The car has no smoke emitting from the exhaust or anywhere in the engine bay.

I read a few similar issues on the forums that point to the AFM but the powerfc shows increasing voltage from the AFM as throttle is increased. The AFM was previously relocated to after the cooler if that makes a difference.

Car has: PowerFC, 4" pod to HKS 2835, cooler to z32 AFM, nismo fuel pump, nismo 720cc injectors, splitfire coils.

The battery has been disconnected for the duration of storage too, so is it possible that tune has been wiped from the ECU?

Any other ideas what the issue could be and how to fix it?

I just want to get it drivable so I can drop it off at chasers and get it 100% again.

Bitsushiti Contributor

Bitsushiti

Posted
Posted

Suspect throttle position sensor (TPS)? You can check TPS voltage with your PFC commander under ETC -> Sensor check (with ignition on - don't need to start engine)

Voltage should be 0.5v throttle closed, 4.5v throttle open.

nakuma Enthusiast

nakuma

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Fuel is a few weeks old

TPS is reading 0.36v closed 4.08v open

Ok, I just tried to bridge the diag plug to get some error codes and now the issue has vanished! Maybe the ECU was stuck in a limp mode and that reset it. Just took her for a squirt and its 100% again.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

that makes no sense

the diag port goes nowhere when you use the powerfc

the powerfc doesnt run normal ECCS diag so the port is useless, if you want diag look at ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

After leaving the skyline in storage for about half a year I have been trying to get it running happily again but I've run into a few issues.

When started, the car idles fine. When the throttle is increased it won't climb any higher than 2k and then a loud popping sound is heard coming from the pod filter, like the car is back firing. The popping occurs roughly every 5 seconds and is quite loud.

When the throttle is blipped it will rev freely all the way to redline but it will only rev to 2k when the throttle is opening incrementally.

I changed the fuel, fuel filter, spark plugs thinking it was air/fuel related but the issue remains.

The car has no smoke emitting from the exhaust or anywhere in the engine bay.

I read a few similar issues on the forums that point to the AFM but the powerfc shows increasing voltage from the AFM as throttle is increased. The AFM was previously relocated to after the cooler if that makes a difference.

Car has: PowerFC, 4" pod to HKS 2835, cooler to z32 AFM, nismo fuel pump, nismo 720cc injectors, splitfire coils.

The battery has been disconnected for the duration of storage too, so is it possible that tune has been wiped from the ECU?

Any other ideas what the issue could be and how to fix it?

I just want to get it drivable so I can drop it off at chasers and get it 100% again.

my idea is the injectors, maybe there a bit blocked up after so long leading to some lean running? sounds like how mine ran with simply not enough fuel, or fuel is stale.

Edited by AngryRBGTX
nakuma Enthusiast

nakuma

Posted
  • Author
Posted

that makes no sense

the diag port goes nowhere when you use the powerfc

the powerfc doesnt run normal ECCS diag so the port is useless, if you want diag look at ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

You're right, that's what got my stumped

I have no idea why the issue resolved itself

All the sensors showed the expected voltage

I thought it would be shit fuel too, but when it fired up yesterday there were no issues at all.

I thought if I took it for a spin I would atleast get a little knock from the fuel but it never went above 19

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Duncan
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...