Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm getting bloody sick of missing out on 350z springs! every time I see them for sale they've already been sold :(

glws

I'll have some Tein H-Techs for sale soon?

I'm getting bloody sick of missing out on 350z springs! every time I see them for sale they've already been sold :(

glws

Just get coilovers, cause you'll get sick of springs as well..

im so keen on htechs if itpesaf passes

no worries - remind me when the time comes.as in - if i put them up for sale and don't contact you first, remind me of that.

embarassingly, i am installing coilovers, but probably going to have to set them higher than the h-techs sit - which will mean practically back to stock height. moved into a new house yesterday with a massive garage and a carport - and my car can't get in the driveway!!!!! exhaust flange hits coming up off the street, and then the driveway dips down and my nismo bar hits the concrete. FML.

How low do the h-techs sit? will they be ok with the stock shocks?

ps. If it aint too low, and if they sit fine on stock shocks please pm me! Only prob is I'm in Adelaide :( but I'm happy to pay postage.

I have a feeling those H-techs sit a little lower than 1''

You'll need to upgrade your shocks in the near future after putting lower springs on your car as it puts more pressure on them and shortens the life. That's why most people skip straight to adjustable coils as decent quality shocks for our car can see you paying up to $500 for a set..

But surely the V35 shocks and 350Z shocks are the same? (I'm not talking about the H-techs, but moreso in my case). Changing to 350Z stock springs shouldnt affect the V35 shocks as they're the same as the 350Z? Although I guess weight difference is an issue.

I have a feeling those H-techs sit a little lower than 1''

You'll need to upgrade your shocks in the near future after putting lower springs on your car as it puts more pressure on them and shortens the life. That's why most people skip straight to adjustable coils as decent quality shocks for our car can see you paying up to $500 for a set..

Incorrect. They sit 15mm lower at the front and 8mm lower at the rear. They're designed specifically to be used with stock shocks, and to give a slightly lower ride without sacrificing comfort.

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35/product_info.php?products_id=2968

You might be thinking of S-Techs which are lower again. As per my other thread, I dunno how people run much lower. Stupid long wheelbase :angry:

Kinda getting off topic here, but if I wasn't going to be running such large/agressive wheels I would stick with these springs and just replace the tired shocks. Didn't want to take the risk of not having coilovers for the sake of adjustability and fine tuning the clearance.

Incidentally, I have 350Z shocks in the rear of mine and it sits the same as the stock shocks based on photos - so I'd hazard they're the same shocks - and Nissan counters the extra weight of the V35 with taller springs - which explains why 350z springs lower the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...