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hey, my timing belt has become noisey, i know its the timing belt because a mechanic friend dripped some water on the belt and the noise dissappeared for a day then came back, its like a SSSS-SS-SSSSS-SSS-SSSS-SSS noise if you know what i mean.

The belt is due for a change, but appears good still with no cracks etc.

Question is , ive had the front cover off and the belt and pulleys are exposed to the air, so would this being doing somthing to the belt?

and will the new belt make this noise after a short time due to being exposed too?

timing belt has done 65000k's

Edited by AngryRBGTX
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I would be replacing the belt and bearings etc ASAP man, your motor is relying on it and it ifs making noises that is generally a bad thing!

heavily agreed.

Otherwise having that cover off wont do anything untoward unless you drive through a big sand dune or otherwise live in a really dusty dirty area.

Beyond this the cover can often hide noises from the cam belt system so when you remove it you can then notice noises more. (this also works the other way round like with my car where the cam cover was resonating a weird sound and this stopped when the cover was removed :S [fixed now- new rubbers])

I would be replacing the belt and bearings etc ASAP man, your motor is relying on it and it ifs making noises that is generally a bad thing!

yeah, ive got the new belt so ill take it off road til its done im just wondering if this noise will come back if i keep the cover off, i kept cover off cause it seemed noisey with it on and i broke 2 CAS's and was worry it was contributing at that time. :yes:

When you took the top cover off, did you pack out the CAS to suit?

Makes a good noise while the CAS has its guts pushed out.

not sure what you mean, i replaced that outer rubber gasket and just bolted up as normal, the sound is definitely the belt, although the engine does make kind of a mitsubishi magna sound which might be the cas?

yeah thats correct then,


Basically you cant just remove that cam cover as well as the rubber gasket as you will have seen there are basically some washers in that gasket where the CAS bolts on to and this spaces it out by the desired amount. If you put the CAS straight back on without this spacing there it can do some damage to it all.


Also, from my experience, i hope you managed to get the CAS back on exactly at the same point as it was. Mine was out (rotated) by 2mm which wound up being 4 degrees retarded. And thankfully retarded and not advanced!

Edited by jjman

yeah thats correct then,

Basically you cant just remove that cam cover as well as the rubber gasket as you will have seen there are basically some washers in that gasket where the CAS bolts on to and this spaces it out by the desired amount. If you put the CAS straight back on without this spacing there it can do some damage to it all.

Also, from my experience, i hope you managed to get the CAS back on exactly at the same point as it was. Mine was out (rotated) by 2mm which wound up being 4 degrees retarded. And thankfully retarded and not advanced!

yeah i put those spacers on with the gasket, i learnt the hard way and broke two CAS due to incorrect spacing and alignment and i broke the gear off the cam too, bloody expensive mistakes!

does anyone know how accurate the timing marks are? ive just taken everything off and have it all lined up to the marks, the crank is spot on but the cam wheels are both slightly off, but that might be just the way it is, probably need adjustible wheels to get things perfect???

does anyone know how accurate the timing marks are? ive just taken everything off and have it all lined up to the marks, the crank is spot on but the cam wheels are both slightly off, but that might be just the way it is, probably need adjustible wheels to get things perfect???

the marks are spot on.

if they are out, i would be saying youre a tooth out somewhere.

get your mechanic to check it if youre not 100%

does anyone know how accurate the timing marks are? ive just taken everything off and have it all lined up to the marks, the crank is spot on but the cam wheels are both slightly off, but that might be just the way it is, probably need adjustible wheels to get things perfect???

With my crank at TDC both my cam marks were about half a tooth retarded. Dialling them in they were 3.5 degrees exhaust and 6.0 degrees inlet out. Marks lined up after pretty much spot on after

With my crank at TDC both my cam marks were about half a tooth retarded. Dialling them in they were 3.5 degrees exhaust and 6.0 degrees inlet out. Marks lined up after pretty much spot on after

really?

mine were spot on.

not out in the slightest.

go figure....

maybe the old belt must be a bit stretched because its a little shorter and was bloody hard to get on it and now its pretty much spot on, the exhaust cam looks slightly advanced but close enough.

Edited by AngryRBGTX

my noise was more of a hissing, but the noise you have is what i had when the top cover was on,

could that top cover be getting rubbed by the belt i wonder? id really like to get to the bottem of that noise

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