Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Drivers Window Stopped Working

mystery_kid

By mystery_kid,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

mystery_kid Mentor

mystery_kid

Posted
Posted

so last week my window just stopped working, thang kod it stopped working while it was already up

the passenger side still works from the drivers side panel, when i press both buttons down it doesn't click like it used to

i'm just trying to work out if it is the motor or the panel

since i've had the car sometimes the windows will randomly stop working for a few seconds from the drivers side panel then start working again

i'm leaning towards electrical panel fault but has anyone else had the same problem?

xntrq Veteran

xntrq

Posted
Posted

Sounds like the motor if the switch panel is still working for the passenger side. The likes of half the switch panel just mysteriously "dying" out is very little. I've got a spare switch or regulator if you need.

RB25DETC33 Community Regular

RB25DETC33

Posted
Posted

Test the motor. Pull the door car off, find the two wires that are connected to the motor, next either locate the 12v and gnd wires and bridge the wires. Or if your not sure which ones are 12v pull the battery out and take it to the door use wires to link the motor to the battery. Just change the terinals to reverse the direction. If the motor goes up and down then ur relay box is munted.

mystery_kid Mentor

mystery_kid

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

yeah it sort of feels like it's the relay, it used to click when the windows were both down and you'd press the buttons both down

i'll pull the door card off today and have a look with a multimeter

I've got a spare switch or regulator if you need.

i will keep that in mind, do you also have the window motor available too? (depending on which one it is)

how much do you want for both parts individually?

Edited by mystery_kid
mystery_kid Mentor

mystery_kid

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ok i just realised i have no idea where the window motor is in the door...

took some pics if anyone could help point out where i should be looking

http://i.imgur.com/iqA9zLt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/EuBrzw4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3BsL0R9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gePrYR7.jpg

Edited by mystery_kid
RB25DETC33 Community Regular

RB25DETC33

Posted
Posted

Mate your looking for this:

http://www.google.com.au/search?q=r34+window+motor&hl=en&client=safari&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=CZQpUeCYC-eYiAeL1IGAAw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=320&bih=356#i=1

It will be bolted to the inner door skin(what the door card clips to.) should be located near the centre Of the door.

BlackBox Rising Star

BlackBox

Posted
Posted

this happened to me last week,

Took the door skin off, held the switch in the up position (Window was stuck down)

And gave the motor a light tap with a hammer while still holding the switch..

Im guessing my motor must have been jammed because its had no problem since

mystery_kid Mentor

mystery_kid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mate your looking for this:

http://www.google.com.au/search?q=r34+window+motor&hl=en&client=safari&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=CZQpUeCYC-eYiAeL1IGAAw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=320&bih=356#i=1

It will be bolted to the inner door skin(what the door card clips to.) should be located near the centre Of the door.

yep pretty much straight after posting those photos i googled it and worked out where it was

i'm not convinced it is the motor, i put my multi meter on the 2 signal wires and pressed down and it only came showed 6.5volts which isn't right, should be 12v or -12v depending on direction

RB25DETC33 Community Regular

RB25DETC33

Posted
Posted

yep pretty much straight after posting those photos i googled it and worked out where it was

i'm not convinced it is the motor, i put my multi meter on the 2 signal wires and pressed down and it only came showed 6.5volts which isn't right, should be 12v or -12v depending on direction

Yeh usually the motors last a lifetime, its the switches or amps that blow first. if you know anyone with the same r34 type as you (coupe/sedan) borrow their switch to see if it works.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...