Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm wanting to start tracking my r33 what suspension upgrades do I need to do. I already have bilstein shocks with lowered king springs. Also have whiteline swaybars front and back 24mm with the end links. What arms castor rods bushes ect do I need for a decent track setup. Brands would be a help to. The car will mainly be tracked at winton as I live in wangaratta.

Cheers Josh.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420499-r33-gtst-track-suspension-setup/
Share on other sites

Thanks gtsboy. I've got a rough idea of what I need. Just wasn't sure on which brands are better ect and tried searching with not much luck. Also wasn't sure on exact settings. I'll try searching again. But thanks for the heads up.

Forget brands and other little mods. The biggest thing that will make a difference to your track time is tyres and driving training.

Otherwise if you still want to hash over this topic in this thread then you might want to mention what ur spring rates are in your coils as well as any adjustability in the shocks...


-GL n otherwise spend alot more time searching. Work out what camber, toe in, balance etc is and does, and you will also be able to understand alot more of the advice that will be made.

  • 1 month later...

Over the last few years we've taken an essentially stock R33 GTST to Winton and gradually upgraded it, noting the laptime benefits of each upgrade.

We reduced the weight significantly, (probably around 200kgs removed), ran the same boost pressure and stock brake system during this period. We also installed a VideoVBOX system to properly understand what was happening.

Whilst this car had previously had Tein Street Springs installed it still had some pretty rubbish standard shocks. So no coil-overs...

Biggest 'feel' benefit was a proper fixed back race seat. Not a lot of lap time here, but major gains to help learn what the car was doing.

Sway bars: -2.1" per lap

Whiteline Blade Adjustable, as most people attest, gave a massive laptime improvement on the same rubber.

Brake reconditioning: -2.8" per lap

Still the stock brake rotors, re-machined, Ferodo pads, Dot 5 fluid and new seals all-round.

Semi-Slicks (Toyo R888's) -5.58" per lap

We also shimmed up the diff a little before bolting these tyres on so it's difficult to tell how much of which was of benefit, but I can tell you the diff shims were very cheap and the tyres, not so much!

There's a million other little upgrades on there, like a HICAS lockbar and undertray, rear wing, but there's no way for us to directly prove the benefits using the data... and asides from the lockbar they aren't 'suspension' related.

We will have BC ER Coilovers on soon, but also a completely new RB30DET good for well over 500bhp and a roll cage, so it won't be a fair comparison. But I hope this helps.

Some more details on the project including on-boards etc here:

http://droppingthehammer.wordpress.com/

Best of luck, hope to see you there soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...