Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I have a few stagea questions for the techs.

I have had cefiros, skylines etc but i got into motocross a few year ago so i downgraded to a old 88 triton..

recently i purchased a car i have wanted for a long time, a Stagea.

i have had it for a week today and i have a few questions for yas.

1.)Is there an over driver on and off switch for the automatic transmission??

2.) i always let it warm up before i drive, if i let it warm up for 2 minutes 30 seconds ( temp gauge goes to half way) is fine, but if i let it warm up for 30 seconds ( temp gauge hasn't moved) it cuts out??

3.) last night the AT light came on the dash and car wouldnt go into over drive, pulled over, turned car off then it was fine??

any ideas would be great guys

cheers

Kris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420632-stagea-problems-please-helllp/
Share on other sites

Ok so it happened again. Driving today and AT ligjt came on . So I pulled over. Instead ogf turning on and off I stopped and took off again. It was like it was in 4th and was stuck. Sounded like it was slipoing but once I got speed was fine. The dash said it was changing gears but didnt feel like it.. so I stopped and turned it off again. Now its fine again . Does this soumd like somethibg major??? Just sucks coz cant get it to mechanics for another 3 weeks

I've only ever had a S1. I don't think you guys are talking about the O/D though, but the torque converter locking up after warming up. It'll go into O/D when cold but the converter won't lock up until the box reaches temp (kind of sounds like going into another gear though I guess). In winter I can almost get home before it'll lock up. But I don't think thats the problem here anyway. I don't know if the S2's have the A/T switch to go between power, normal and snow. But flicking it in snow will make it feel like that. Takes off in second from stand still. But I'm thinking its going into a limp mode for the gearbox. So could just be a sensor somewhere that on its way out or something more sinister. Explains why when you turn the car on and off it goes away.

As a suggestion, do this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/

Have pen & paper ready.

It should give you an indication as to what could be at fault.

Clear the codes & see what happens. Sometimes, if there is a minor hiccup (e.g. slightly ill fitting harness plug) in a system somewhere, it logs a code. Even if the hiccup disappears, the code is still logged, so it can bring the light on & depending on how bad the ECU thinks the issue is, go into limp mode, like what's happening to you.

While this sounds more like a faulty sensor, have you checked trans fluid level? I know autos can get all funky when they are low.

And for christ's sake, don't warm up your car for two and a half minutes >< You're doing more harm than good.

Start it

Let it idle for 20-30 tops

Get going

Drive sedately until it's up to temp

ah ok fair enough then...

i only let it warm up that much once, usually is about 30 seconds, trans fluid looks ok but will double check levels tongiht i guess. going in to get checked soon i hope

Taking it to a work shop tonight hopefully. they didnt have the connections to run the tests last night so hopefully they have them today.

its been fine, the mechnic told me togive it a bit and i do today and the AT light came on twice =(, i had more of a play around and it seems to come on, ans be stuck in 3rd and 4th, and when its in 4th i decellerate drops to 500 rpm, again turn it off and fine, hopefully they can source the prolem today.

Hey guys, got it scanned today and its shift s/v a psw, so the shift solenoid has shit itself.

they quoted $500 approx not including oil etc..

anyone replaced one before? i know the sump has tto come out bud dunno what else has to be done

They would have to drop the valve body to replace the solenoid, $500 is a little expensive, but they did diagnose the fault and they need to warrant their work. If it fixes the fault I guess you got out of it cheap, a s/h box would cost a lot more than that fitted...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...