Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys


selling off my project car r33 gtr i only really just bought it but have moved onto an r35 haha.. cant afford both, especially with r35 parts being as expensive as they are.


ALL PARTS LOCATED IN MACKAY NTH QLD, POSTAGE CAN BE ARRANGED


I CAN ALSO POSSIBLY TRANSPORT THE SHELL TO BRISBANE OR NEAR THERE PROVIDED I HAVEN'T SOLD THE WHEELS OR ANYTHING ELSE TO MAKE IT DEMOBILISED!! WILL ALSO NEED A MONTHS NOTICE AS ITS A 1000KM DRIVE AND NEED TO ORGANISE A TRAILER OFF MY MATE..


R33 Gtr mnp shell it is complied and DID have rego a couple years ago (nur33's old shell) - $1500


  • Front windscreen cracked
  • Stripped interior, not one bit of wiring harness front to rear
  • Front guards modified as per picture
  • Custom dash reo bar made
  • Custom alloy dash made
  • Sound deadening partially removed - just the stuff i could get with dry ice.. Some still baked on like around the gbox tunnel
  • Front radiator support cut out - was planning on welding a couple tabs to it then bolting it back on via the tabs
  • Lower front chassis brace cut out and replaced with a piece of tube to give the radiator more room and be able to have the intercoler sit upside down and have its inlet and outlet very close to the intake mani and turbo for short piping.
  • all fuel and brake lines have been removed
  • aerocatch bonnet pins
  • led taillights
  • will throw in the whole car loom and all ecus that i have.. loom is cut in a few spots and one ecu is damaged.
  • NO DIFF!!


additional parts to suit.. if you buy the shell the below parts will come at a discount depending on what it is you want.



  • r33 gtr BC External Reservior coils, as new only fitted and moved 50metres - $1350
  • r33 gtr black oem front bar, good condition paint is scratched a bit - $500
  • r33 gtr/gtst greddy front strut brace - $125
  • r33 gtr carbon fibre grill with no symbol just mesh - $100
  • r33 gtr rear wing, carbon end caps - $350
  • r33 gtr front lights very good condition - $350
  • r33 gtr/gtst cusco hicas lockout bars very good condition - $250
  • r33 gtr cusco front swaybar - $250
  • r33 gtr moonface racing castor arms - $200
  • r33 gtr passenger seat, good condition - $250
  • r33 gtr front drive shafts - $400
  • r33 gtr rear driveshafts - $500
  • r33 gtr front propshaft - $150
  • r33 gtr main propshaft - $300
  • r33 gtr rear strut tower/boot bracing, not the bar that goes from tower to tower but the bracing that bolts to the strut tower and boot floor - $150
  • r33 gtr bonnet, mnp with genuine uras bonnet vent - $450
  • r33 gtr interior panels, have a whole bunch of them, pretty much only threw out everything in the back half of the car and the dash - not sure what condition it is all in these days so if you want something i will have a look and see if its there then get back to you with a price.

Aftermarket Stuff


  • GTR Trust Drag intercooler 600x300x150mm, VGC, part of the end tanks chopped off for the different orientation i was planning while running it upside down - $1900
  • Stack 8130 dash - excellent condition has all loom, oil pressure and one temp sensor.. needs one more temp sensor to complete it - $1450
  • Full Set r34 gtr standard brakes with slotted front and rear rotors, rotors have been painted to keep rust off - $2000
  • AME TM-02 wheels, 18x10+15 all corners on 1000km old achillies 123s semis 265x35x18 - all very good condition no gutter rash - $2300
  • rochester 14mm 1200cc injectors x 4, never been used only fitted - $400
  • buddy club fixed back seat, has rail to suit s13/4/5. black with grey inserts for a normal sized person, has a small tear in the fabric other than that its as new - $450
  • sr20vet mazworx lhd or RHD without brake booster intake manifold, no fuel rail as new condition just needs a throttle cable bracket welded on - $500
  • s13 whiteline front swaybar good condition - $125
  • S14/15 K.L.S camber arms - $85
  • 2jz exhaust manifold 3d flange ready to make a manifold - $100



thats it for now..


please contact me (spencer) on 0413347774 or via pm

as requested, a picture of the bonnet. only one i have thats half decent.. i can get some better ones on the dslr tomorrow if you want? bit dark atm

also has aerocatch bonnet pins fitted now instead of the ones pictured and forgot to mention the n1 lip

DSC_0001-1.jpg

Hey

So far the rear driveshafts are gone and front bar, had intrest in the suspension and most likely sold the brake master cylinder.. Other than that it is still how it looks in that picture minus the autoselect lip..

Send me a pm and we can work a price out depending on what you want to come with it..

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...