Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Turns out I was low on Glycol, and I overfilled my reservoir. So when the turbo gets warm it boils and over flows the tank(Worse when I was running BP98). Since I reduced the tank level back to where it's supposed to be, replaced the coolant and purged the system it has been stable(touch wood)

I understand how air pockets in the system would cause timing drift...would also cause incorrect mixtures in open loop. The thing is every ECU suffers from the same fate. "Incorrect data input causes incorrect data out"

Will it need head studs, pistons, trans replaced at some stage....yes I expect so. Am I trying to kill it, of course not, Am I trying to make as much power as I can-yes, Am I being reckless because I bought it with a blown turbo cheap-no

If you want to poo poo the EMU to support your link development, the biggest problem with EMU is injector timing. A stand alone will make more power, cleaner exhaust(less fuel smoke) and be better on fuel.

Shift timing is effected from the EMU boost cut clamp, the Shift kit doesn't really help the problem as the TCU try's to bring the shift points back in line with the Target MAP vs load input on the CAN line. If the Link will interface with the TCU CAN it will certainly help keep the trans alive. A TCU reprogram would also be a valuable investment

Edited by BoostdR
  • Like 1

How's this..

I emailed Nistune Developments about the M35 and AFM failure frequencies here.

No one there ever heard of AFMs blowing up due to modifying and/or tuning, nor of M35 issues.

They thinks it's a design fault somewhere and sounds like it could be getting more voltage than it needs through it's power supply.

Suggested regulating the power source or try a GTR AFM..

Anyway worth a try.

If you want to poo poo the EMU to support your link development

A few EMU fitted cars have thrown rods recently... I knew about the timing issues when I installed mine and installed the Fcon as soon as I could. No need for me to 'poo poo' the EMU, every tuner I speak to does that without me saying a word, hence why no-one will tune it these days. Good on you for trying to develop it further, but the only reason I was installing them is, there was no other option.

A little support with our M35 Link development wouldn't go astray, it isn't about selling a heap of units, it's about getting a decent tuning option for those few of us pushing the limits. I know we will struggle to sell enough to recoup even a small part of the costs involved, and there are plenty of headaches with it still to address.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...