Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha, yeah, I forgot the shoutout was for Anthony :(

I only got carsales pic ): Which will be updated hopefully tonight.

You can hear me coming AND see me coming ! (Exhaust is at 99 dB)

Depends with future projects, but I was thinking a matte black spray. I haven't seen any in Canberra (Whether or not that's a good or bad thing).

matte on cars= bad idea. a REAL pain to keep. You need to wash it as soon as dust hit its. So pretty much every time you drive it. Get one of the paint shops to match your current colour=win.

matte on cars= bad idea. a REAL pain to keep. You need to wash it as soon as dust hit its. So pretty much every time you drive it. Get one of the paint shops to match your current colour=win.

I understand they scratch easily but didn't know about it being so sensitive. Washing it weekend shouldn't be to much of an issue though. So, if I was to wash it once a week whilst using it as a daily would that be okay? I do love the current colour ! but have always wanted matte black / grey.

Umm - reduced gap is for more modified vehicles.

If it's stock or near stock then leave the gap at 1.0 or 1.1

I now have no idea on what I should be getting D: I have some of the car opened (bigger pod, exhaust)

Also dude bring it to wheels on the weekend. Good chance to meet heaps of us.

Yeah, Rob was saying ! However, the front bar is emberassing damaged (Not by me! Rob can confirm) and if police are lurking I'll be in for a hefty fine. (Car is legal in NSW but ACT? not really haha).

gap the plugs, see the outcome. If it doesn't work you can always re gap them. I would suggest borrowing robs ones just to check. If this doesn't work:

1. it could also be a clogged fuel filter.

2. Possible vacuum leak on turbo lines OR a hose is split somewhere.

3. 02 sensor??????????????

Also does it do it when you are sitting at 3-4k OR is it under high boost? or both

And when the AFM was cleaned was it 100% checked to be working??

Edit: it is also POSSIBLE (unlikely) that your cat is f**ked and causing air flow issues with the exhaust....

Edited by Anfanee

gap the plugs, see the outcome. If it doesn't work you can always re gap them. I would suggest borrowing robs ones just to check. If this doesn't work:

1. it could also be a clogged fuel filter.

2. Possible vacuum leak on turbo lines OR a hose is split somewhere.

Also does it do it when you are sitting at 3-4k OR is it under high boost? or both

Boost is at around 0.5 -1 bar. At really low boost it seemed to happen a lot sooner and at a higher boost it seemed to last maybe 500 RPM more. But in saying that, we were running around 0.5 bar and when it hits 4k it would splutter out and then pick back up again as if nothing happened.

Once I get some videoes tonight. I'm sure you guys will be able to pick up on what's wrong in an instent. It's a very oblivious sound.

If it was a vacuum/boost hose leak wouldn't it cause either higher OR lower boost than desired depending on where the leak was?

eg.

Pressure leak in solenoid, boost control or waste-gate actuator lines would result in higher boost pressure due to actuator reading low pressure and wastegate opening later or possibly not at all! :O

and

Pressure leak after turbo, intercooler, intake manifold plenum etc would result in lower boost pressure due to...well... loss of pressure?

Also you would possibly be able to hear it leaking anyway, like a high pitched hissing noise...

But I didn't think either of these would necessarily cause the symptoms you are describing BUT... I may be wrong? :S

Maybe due to weird air/fuel mix but yeah...Can anyone confirm?

Should a boost controller be venting the extra psi back into the system like the stock solenoid does?

The normal nipple on the bov return pipe is blocked off but not sure where his controller is bleeding off the extra boost.

That would be a leak if it's not plumbed in yes?

Depends on type of boost controller I think, but in essence, the boost controller should limit the flow to the actuator to increase boost pressure by making the waste-gate open later.

So the most simple set-up will be| Hose from Turbo ---> Boost Controller ---> Hose to waste-gate actuator.

Then all other connections like the stock solenoid hoses etc can be plugged up, just make sure they don't leak.

You can get different types of boost controllers though.

Some withhold/block pressure to waste-gate actuator (like TurboTech and Turbosmart "T-Pieces").

Some vent/bleed pressure somehow, either back into the system or maybe even atmosphere?

And some have a replacement solenoid type thingo. I think these are more for Electronic/Dual Stage Boost Controllers.

Again... may need confirmation as I'm no mechanic/expert lol

Ahhh.... plugs, learn about plugs and what the different colours of soot mean. very important. and easy to do.

Always go with NGK they are the best.

Copper plugs are just as good as platinum, and 5 times cheaper.

And a satin finish is easier to keep than matte, but harder to get right when spraying.

A spray job like that is not usually something you pay for (because matte or satin paint is sht) just diy.

The pad on the spark plug was like a pin, as oppose to a more round / flat one. So the spark must have been not strong enough, also it was rated at 1.1 gap.

It's a clean rev cycle, however towards the end it chops a bit, but that could be the computer needing to fix itself/ tune itself in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...