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$40 more than quoted, the hub / spindle was a goner so can't buy a hub alone, they all seem to be as one piece so I'm getting a second hand hub / bearing, not ideal for the money I'm paying but I couldn't come up with much while the guy has the thing sitting on the lift and is pointing at his watch. I kept him at bay for two days, no luck so I had to go with an expensive second hand replacement form a wreckers. Not really happy about it.

So got the car back, on pickup the guy says a tie rod end is not looking right, moves a few mm, will do it "next time", didn't tell me about it before hand so I could of just had it done too..... so not sure about that one, he was telling me, its because they are specialists that they noticed it, 9/10 places wouldnt have seen it.

Get it home, a mechanic guy I know wants to look it over, drops down the back and says, hey your exhaust is sitting on the diff, can't have that, says the new sway bars must be doing it.... ok, so now what, is that even much of a problem? dint my exhaust I guesS? Recons that will be a problem around rego time. Take it back to the shop and have them fix it properly?

Tell me you took the advice and used the guys recommendation.

Please don't say you got Pedders to do the work.

and yes - take it back ASAP and get it done properly.

Edited by Sinista32
  • 2 months later...

So I had a new problem aswell, the left side scrubs out when you turn right. Great!

I'd done that initially at the time. The kid managing the shop was quite upset at my assertion there was a problem after the work was done, great so I argue with the guy acting like a dick on the phone organise a time to come down and show them. At this point, ok the problem wasnt there before the work was done but things can happen and it really could not be their fault, so I'm like just find the bloody problem and as long as it isnt the work you did I'll pay to get it fixed. Plenty of bullshit later I take it down. First they couldn't find anything wrong after saying they took it for a drive and tested it, After a a phone call telling the guy to get the bloody mechanic to drive it around the bloody round about next to the shop he came back with.. ahuh yeah theres a problem but its not us, scouts honour. I came back to the shop, the guy managing it is to busy of talking to a mechanic so I walk in the back and talk to the guy doing the work. He's like yeah, I tighten up the bolts on the guards i took off, (the noises were gone when I left), They tested the shock with some doo hicky that measures the shock in literally some ways, great. Mechanic, "look its not 100% perfect but its more than 99%, so I asked the suspension specialist, is it the bloody springs or any of the other geometry holding the wheel on, .. no.. its the tyres.... I literally said to the man, how the f**k can that be, same tyres on the car, wasn't scrubing out, he gave me a bit of a song and dance about my tyres are wrong for the car, too wide. Lots of bullshit. I asked him you tested it, he says yeah looks fine. He's like yeah it shouldnt be scrubing out, He says when he tested it around the round about, he sees the same problem... the left side scrubs out, (problem is that every time you turn right and the car leans to the left it scrubs out. The car has been running 265 on the back and 23 something, (9 i think I dont remember ) on the front since I'd got it without ever having this problem. Its got spacers and we arent talking about turning the steering to much and it scrubing which you cant do anyway. I'm now left with a problem and no recourse other than finding someone who knows enough about suspension to either tell me what to get fixed or fix it for me, then take my money and do the job. Suspension specialists my ass.

They moved the exhaust over, not enough but it'll probably be fine. The guards came loose again, its not a new car so I guess thats just going to happen, turns left like a boss though if I want to turn right it scrubs out.

Where should I look to get that fixed? Penrith pedders is obviously not the place.

Edited by gts-4 dreamer

Where is the left wheel rubbing? On the front of the inner guard, or at the rear of the inner guard?

Are there adjustable length caster rods involved now that weren't before?

Were the inner guards removed and replaced (and hence possibly not put back correctly) during the work?

Is the car lower than it was?

Why did you go back to Pedders after we told you not to?

In theory a new castor was fitted though which side I don't remember, I'll check the reciept when I get home, the problem was there before it was fitted and is still there after so I don't think that is it. The castor was fitted after the initial work when the problem started and was not resolved with the second service though it did stop for a short time, 2-3 days.

I don't know where the wheel is rubbing, I think its actually rubbing on the top, it bottoms out on the left when i turn right, it needs some wieght transfer, note regular driving does it.

The car has had all the bushes changed and new thicker whiteline sway bars.

No height changes other than the replacement of the worn and cracked parts which is probably a bee's dick worth of extra hieght maybe?

The problem only happens on the right hand side. Yes stuff got unbolted and moved around.

Why did I go back? By far better price but mostly they didn't bullshit and tack on many hundreds of dollars on to the price of parts like every single other shop called did. LIterally. Every shop treated me like an idiot and tried to tack on rediculous parts prices. When I went and priced the parts, I got them for at times half the price, to me, they were saying they didn't want the work.

  • 2 weeks later...

THIS GUY GOT IT IN ONE

Don't replace any arms. There is no need.

Do all the bushes. Polyurethane adjustables for upper arms so you can adjust the camber a bit. Polyurethane for lower bushes if you don't mind a harsh ride, harder than stock rubber ones for a halfway bet or standard rubber ones to try to keep it more civilised.

New rear subframe mounts are a good idea. I would just use standard ones here unless you want to stiffen it up to the max and suffer more NVH. Same with diff mounts if they have been flagged as bad.

24mm adjustable Whiteline anti-rollbars at both ends with the heavy duty links as appropriate.

The caster rods are an interesting point. Minimally, you just put new bushes in. The next step up is you put non-adjustable polyurethane bushes in (that is a nice improvement). Next step is adjustable polyurethane. That is the minimum I would do. The final step is to take off the original rods and replace with aftermarket ones with rose joints at the front end. These are about a bazzillion times better than any other option.....except they are not road legal. I normally try to keep everything on the car legal, but I will break that rule for caster rods!

You probably need new dampers too, but that is a big extra lump of coin. Look into it after you've bled yourself dry doing all that other stuff.

So I got a Pedders suspension check because its loose as a hooker and leaning on its own tyres in a corner and I don't know enough about it.

So what else would you get done to improve handling while you change these bits?

lateral arms - lower, whatever that is?

Cross member mounts

sway bar links and bushes

upper control arm & inner bushes

radius rod and bushes

Essentially all the bushes and the sway bar links need replacing. So while they are off, may aswell improve some stuff and looking for ideas.

The sway bars will be changed out along with the rest, but what else?

thats all done, but if I turn right it leans on the left tyre and scrubs a bit, it doesnt take a great deal of weight transfer to get it to scrub either. Turning left and weighting up the right hand side, not a single problem, corners like its on rails, is so much fun its insane, but turning right requires me to go slow as.

Anyone got any ideas where to start. If you say pedders in penrith, I'm liable to shoot you.

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